India's fashion scene is undergoing a transformation, with a growing popularity for ready-to-wear (RTW) collections from homegrown luxury labels. This trend caters to a growing desire for high-quality, well-designed pieces that are more accessible than traditional haute couture. Bain & Company predicts India's RTW market to reach a staggering Rs 12,500 crores by 2025, a testament to its booming potential. Cashing in on demand are couturiers and top designers. They are fulfilling the aspirations of the upwardly mobile consumer looking for a top label in their wardrobe.
Fueling the rise
Several factors are fueling this RTW revolution. Firstly, rising disposable income, particularly in Tier II, III, and IV cities, is empowering a growing middle class to seek out premium fashion experiences. India's luxury goods market, valued at Rs 63,180 crores in 2023 (as per Statista), is projected to maintain a steady growth trajectory. While India's couture industry has always been renowned for its opulence and intricate craftsmanship, RTW or prêt offers a more relaxed and practical approach to luxury. These labels bridge the gap between high-end fashion and everyday wearability.
What sets Indian prêt apart is its ability to bridge the gap between high-end fashion and everyday wearability. Unlike the opulent and intricately crafted world of couture, RTW offers a relaxed and practical approach to luxury. These labels reinterpret classic Indian textiles and silhouettes for a contemporary audience, offering flowy kurtas with clean lines, modern takes on saris, and jackets crafted from luxurious silks. This delightful fusion of tradition and modernity resonates deeply with the style-conscious Indian consumer.
Adding another dimension to the trend is the growing emphasis on sustainability. Many RTW labels prioritize eco-friendly practices and ethical production, appealing to environmentally conscious consumers.
Leading the Charge: Luxe labels in the prêt space
There are several luxury labels that are redefining their lines with prêt offerings. Ura Maku, a brand synonymous with ‘quiet luxury’ in India founded by Manjushree Saikia, offers timeless pieces like power suits crafted from handwoven fabrics by artisans from Assam. Similarly, Alaya by Stage3, this New Delhi-based label curates a collection of trendy yet sophisticated ethnic and contemporary pieces. They collaborate with stylists and influencers to offer a unique blend of Indian sensibilities with a modern twist. ANI Clothing on the other hand focuses on sustainable, high-quality Western wear. Their ethically sourced fabrics and relaxed silhouettes with a touch of Indian heritage have garnered a loyal following, especially among millennials. Another brand, Rescha embodies sustainable elegance with its flowy silhouettes and use of organic fabrics. And La Fulia offers a unique blend of slow fashion and sustainable practices. Their collections feature delicate embroideries and a focus on timeless elegance.
Couturiers embrace prêt
Even established couturiers are embracing the RTW revolution. Gaurav Gupta, who started his career in prêt before venturing into couture, recently made a splash with his Autumn/Winter 2023 RTW collection. Similarly, designer Rahul Mishra, known for his phenomenal haute couture contributions, showcased his new RTW line at Paris Fashion Week in September 2023.
A shift in consumer preferences
The pandemic has significantly impacted consumer behavior, leading to a move away from occasion-driven purchases of handcrafted designer wear. The rise of fashion e-commerce and the rapid dissemination of global trends through social media are further propelling this shift. This transition is resulting in designer wear becoming more commonplace in everyday wardrobes of the upper-middle-class and upper-class demographics. As designer Amit Aggarwal points out, prêt is a major talking point in luxury brands' conversations today, due to its scalability and ability to offer a more accessible experience compared to couture.
A thriving future
Indeed, India's homegrown luxury RTW market is a thriving space that offers a unique blend of tradition, modernity, and sustainable practices. And what’s helping it grow is the lower price point of prêt designs that allows designers to bring new customers into the fold. As for customers, those aspiring to a piece of homegrown luxury now don’t have to wait for a big occasion like a wedding in the family to justify designer buys. As consumer preferences evolve, these labels are well-positioned to cater to a discerning audience seeking effortless luxury and a touch of Indian heritage in their everyday wardrobes.
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