The Rise & Rise of Khadi: From freedom fabric to fashion icon

Khadi, the hand-spun, handwoven fabric of India, carries a legacy interwoven with the nation's struggle for independence. More than just a textile, it was a symbol of self-reliance and resistance against colonial rule, championed by Mahatma Gandhi himself. Today, khadi is experiencing a resurgence, not just as a symbol of national pride, but as a fashionable, sustainable, and globally recognized fabric.

A long legacy

Khadi's story begins in the early 20th century when Mahatma Gandhi urged Indians to boycott foreign-made goods and embrace khadi as a means of economic self-sufficiency. The spinning wheel, or charkha, became a symbol of the Swadeshi movement, and khadi, the fabric it produced, became synonymous with the fight for freedom.

Post-independence, the Indian government established the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) in 1957 to promote and develop the khadi industry. While khadi remained culturally significant, it faced challenges in keeping up with modern textile production.

A resurgence in the modern era

In recent years, khadi has seen remarkable resurgence, and many factors have been at work behind this growth and popularity.

Growing awareness of sustainable and ethical fashion: Consumers are increasingly seeking alternatives to fast fashion, and khadi, with its eco-friendly production process and emphasis on fair labor practices, aligns perfectly with this trend.

Government initiatives and support: The government has launched various schemes and campaigns to promote khadi, including subsidies, marketing support, and design interventions.

Celebrity endorsements and fashion shows: Prominent figures from various fields have embraced khadi, increasing its visibility and appeal. Fashion designers have showcased khadi collections on national and international runways, demonstrating its versatility and contemporary relevance.

Rising demand for natural and handcrafted products: In a world of mass production, the unique texture and handcrafted nature of khadi appeal to those seeking authenticity and individuality.

Growing global interest: Khadi's unique texture, handcrafted appeal, and sustainable credentials have attracted attention from international brands and consumers.

Table: Khadi’s growth through the years

Statistics reveal, the Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of khadi sales over the past nine years is approximately 22 per cent. As per industry reports, the projected market size for khadi by 2027 is expected to be around Rs 10,000 crore ($1.2 billion).

Khadi in the world of fashion

Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee believes, "Khadi is the fabric of India's soul." No wonder more and more Indian designers are increasingly drawn to khadi's unique texture, drape, and versatility. Its natural fibers allow breathability and comfort, while its handcrafted nature lends each piece a distinct character. As designer Ritu Kumar puts it, "Khadi is not just a fabric, it is a philosophy, a way of life."

Ritu Kumar and Sabyasachi Mukherjee have long championed khadi, incorporating it into their signature styles. And younger designers like Rahul Mishra and Anavila Misra have further elevated khadi's status with their innovative designs and global appeal. Mishra opines, “Khadi's beauty lies in its imperfections, its hand-spun, handwoven texture." Global fashion houses like Dior and Gucci too have also experimented with khadi, incorporating it into their collections and showcasing its potential on the international stage. For example, Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior, featured khadi extensively in her Fall 2022 collection, showcasing its elegance and versatility in a range of silhouettes. Gucci partnered KVIC to create a limited-edition collection featuring khadi, highlighting the fabric's sustainable credentials and global appeal.

While khadi's future looks bright, some challenges remain. For example, meeting growing demand without compromising the handcrafted nature of khadi is crucial. Protecting the livelihoods of Khadi artisans is essential for the industry's sustainability. Meanwhile, continuously evolving and adapting to contemporary fashion trends will ensure khadi's continued relevance.

By addressing these challenges and continuing to promote its unique qualities, Khadi can weave a brighter future for itself and the artisans who bring it to life. The rise and rise of khadi is not just an economic phenomenon; it is a cultural revival, a testament to the enduring power of heritage and craftsmanship in a rapidly changing world.