Global brands to resume import of premium footwear into India

Global brands to resume import of premium footwear into India

27 February 2025, Mumbai

Global brands like Nike, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Armani Exchange, Superdry, and Woodland may soon resume importing premium footwear to India as the government has started certifying overseas shoe factories after nearly 18 months.

Executives from three major brands stated that the government initiated this move for two key reasons: US President Donald Trump drawing attention to India's import barriers on American brands and a decline in premium footwear sales due to supply shortages.

India implemented new quality control orders (QCOs) for leather shoes in July 2023 and for other footwear, including sports shoes, sandals, clogs, and slippers, in August 2023. These regulations require shoemakers to source products only from Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS)-certified factories, whether domestic or international. However, the certification process for overseas factories stalled as the government sought to curb imports and promote local manufacturing, leading to stock shortages in the premium segment, executives said.

The certification process for each factory will take two to three months due to quality audits. However, factories in China and those owned by Chinese companies in other countries remain excluded, industry sources said. BIS is open to approving factories in Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and other locations.

Industry executives argued that India currently lacks the capacity to manufacture high-end premium shoes, requiring advanced machinery and skills. While some production has moved to India, including non-leather premium shoes, capabilities remain limited, says Harkirat Singh, Managing Director, Woodland.

Footwear imports into India fell to $299.76 million in 2023 from $920.34 million in 2022.

Executives from brands such as US Polo and Tommy Hilfiger noted significant sales declines due to inventory shortages caused by delayed certifications. However, with factory approvals now progressing, they expect the situation to improve within six months.

The Indian government has also tightened regulations on imports of toys and electronic goods such as televisions, air conditioners, smartphones, and lighting products, particularly from China, through higher duties, import licensing, and mandatory BIS certification. This has prompted several companies to shift production to India.

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