A Couture Journey: HemantSagar and Didier Lecoanet reflect on their legacy

03 August 2024, Mumbai

In 1984, Karl Lagerfeld unveiled his second couture collection for Chanel, while Indian designers HemantSagar and Didier Lecoanet made their mark as debutants in Paris's exclusive haute couture scene. This was a pivotal moment, marking the first Indian name on a prestigious calendar dominated by French designers.

Sagar and Lecoanet, who met at the Ecole de la ChambreSyndicale de la Couture Parisienne, opened their first boutique on Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore, nestled among fashion giants like Pierre Cardin and Louis Vuitton.

They became known for their innovative creations, including skirt suits crafted from ikat and evening gowns with modern bustles. However, after mixed reviews, they shifted their focus to eco-couture in the ’90s, debuting collections featuring materials like alocasia leaves and pineapple fiber.

Their unique designs and techniquessuch as cutting garments directly on modelsdistinguished their brand, attracting a loyal clientele, including Arab royalty. Despite the challenges of a shifting fashion landscape, Sagar and Lecoanet thrived, showcasing 33 collections at Couture Week.

Two decades later, the duo has embraced a quieter life, dividing their time between Gurugram and Mallorca. They have launched two clothing lines, Hemant&Lecoanet and Genes Lecoanet, focusing on less extravagant, more accessible designs.

Reflecting on their couture past, Sagar asserts, “Absolutely not,” when asked about re-entering the competitive fashion scene. Instead, he is content collecting artifacts for his future home in Thailand, embodying the spirit of a designer who has truly arrived at his destination.

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