Businesses rooted in craft should be exempt from tariffs, says designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Renowned Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee opines, businesses rooted in craft and local culture should be exempted from tariffs.
This would allow them to thrive, preserving cultural heritage while enriching the global marketplace, he argues.
Pointing out to a common disconnect between global luxury brands and Indian consumers, Mukherjee explains, international brands fail in India as they don’t understand the cultural nuances of this country. To succeed here, designers need to focus on creating a story, a connection, a reason for the price point.
As Indians emphasize on the products’ value, brands need to define their value clearly, he adds.
Mukherjee sees immense opportunity in today’s shifting geopolitical landscape, particularly as US trade tariffs reshape global commerce. As tariffs push countries, designers, markets, and influencers to explore new alliances, it’s time for Indian brands to rise collectively, he asserts.
Beginning his journey as a fashion designer in the suburbs of Kolkata, Mukherjee was deeply influenced by the cultural traditions of West Bengal. After graduating from fashion school, he chose to build his own brand that not only honors the Indian heritage but also pushes the boundaries of contemporary luxury.
His debut at New York Fashion Week in 2006 was dismissed by critics as being ‘too ethnic.’ But rather than compromising on his vision, Mukherjee focused on redefining Indian fashion. He says, being strong in their identity is the only way for Indian brands to succeed. If they don’t have a unique voice, they’ll never be heard on the world stage, he adds.
Though his designs have remained largely consistent over the years, global perceptions have shifted. Today, his name commands respect — not just for his garments, but for the cultural richness they represent.
