30 July 2024, Mumbai

The Paris Olympics 2024 was a grand stage for athletes from across the globe, each nation showcasing its cultural identity through its contingent's attire. India, known for its rich variations of textiles and traditional craftsmanship, presented a modern interpretation of its heritage through the outfits designed by renowned fashion designer, Tarun Tahiliani. However, the choice of attire sparked a heated debate, with opinions sharply divided between those who lauded the contemporary approach and those who criticized the deviation from traditional aesthetics.

A modern twist on tradition

Tarun Tahiliani, the mastermind behind the Indian Olympic contingent's look, envisioned a blend of tradition and modernity. The male athletes donned a crisp white kurta paired with a bundi jacket which had intricate orange and green nakshi work, a subtle nod to the Indian tricolour. The women, on the other hand, wore Ikat-inspired saris in the national colours, paired with contemporary sneakers.

In an interview with The Indian Express, Tahiliani explained his design philosophy, stating, “Many contingents opt to wear the colours of their national flags to showcase their representation, which is why we too went with the tricolour. The colours made the athletes stand out and be visible from afar.”

A storm of criticism

While the designer aimed to create a visually striking and contemporary look, the outfits faced a barrage of criticism from various quarters. Social media was abuzz with comments ranging from disappointment to outright condemnation. Many traditionalists argued that the designs failed to capture the essence of India's rich textile heritage, accusing Tahiliani of diluting the country's cultural identity.

One critic, in a statement to Mint, expressed their disapproval, stating, "This is a disgrace to our rich weaving culture. We have such a vast array of traditional textiles and crafts, and this is what they come up with?"

A balancing act

The controversy surrounding the Indian Olympic attire highlights the delicate balance between tradition and modernity in contemporary fashion. While some appreciate the designer's attempt to create a global appeal, others believe it is essential to preserve and promote India's rich cultural heritage through its attire on international platforms.

Tahiliani, unfazed by the criticism, defended his design choices in an interview with Republic World, stating, "It's ridiculous to compare this to a wedding. It's about representing the country in a contemporary way."

The Indian Olympic contingent's attire at the Paris Olympics 2024 has undoubtedly sparked a much-needed conversation about the representation of Indian culture on the global stage. While the designs may not have resonated with everyone, they have undoubtedly brought India's fashion and design scene into the spotlight. As the world becomes increasingly interconnected, the challenge lies in finding a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity that appeals to both domestic and international audiences.

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30 July 2024, Mumbai

Bella Casa Fashion & Retail recorded a 58 per cent growth in revenues to Rs 78 crore during Q1, FY25 as against Rs 47 crore in the corresponding quarter of previous fiscal. The company’s profit for the quarter increased by 65 per cent to Rs 3 crore ($358,271) as against Rs 2 crore in the corresponding quarter last year.

This surge in the company’s revenues and profit was driven by a significant 173 percent increase in apparel sales volume, reaching 21 lakh pieces, while home furnishing sales remained strong with 3 lakh units sold.

Saurav Gupta, Director, Bella Casa, states, the quarter marks a robust start to FY25, with peak utilisation and a promising business outlook indicating exciting growth ahead. The company’s strategic decisions, particularly its frugal yet impactful investments in capacity expansion, are geared towards optimising returns on equity and capital employed, ensuring superior cash conversion cycles.

One of India's largest manufacturers of home furnishings and designer ethnic wear, Bella Casa Fashion serves over 50 domestic brands.

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29 July 2024, Mumbai

Celebrated fashion designer TarunTahiliani'sikat-inspired uniforms for the India contingent at the 2024 Paris Olympics are being heavily criticised by industry stalwarts from across all quarters. Designed in the colors of the national flag, the uniforms are being slammed as cheap and tacky on social media.

Columnist DrNanditaIyer says, she has seen better sarees sold in Mumbai streets for Rs. 200 than the ceremonial uniforms designed by Tahiliani. She describes these uniforms as a combination of digital prints, cheap polyester fabric, and an unimaginative use of the tricolor.

Echoing similar sentiments, actor Tara Deshpande comments, the uniforms look absolutely awful. An user of the social media platform X, Namita, adds, crumpled kurtas, polyester printed sarees, faded colors, coming from the land of a hundred-plus handloom fabrics, numerous outstanding weaves, and vibrant colors. Travesty.

The uniforms featured male athletes in white kurta pajamas with jackets showcasing the saffron and green of the Indian tricolor, while female athletes wore sarees. Critics questioned the decision to use printed ikat instead of genuine ikat weaves. Malayalam writer NS Madhavan remarks, Indian athletes like this - dull and ordinary in these uniforms. Tahiliani’s mix of plastic-sheet-like saree, printed ikat, and unimaginative use of tricolor shut the window to the splendid world of Indian textiles.

Defending his choices, Tahilianiexplains, ikat was chosen as it is emblematic of a weaving tradition practiced around the country. However, to meet timelines, his Tasva team had to use digital print ikat.

Tahiliani also defended the use of viscose over cotton, stating, viscose is a wood pulp fiber and lets you breathe. It is cooler than silk.

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30 July 2024, Mumbai

Marking a significant end for the once-prominent Indian retail giant, the Mumbai bench of the National Company Law Tribunal (NCLT) has ordered the liquidation of Future Retail, This decision comes after all attempts to find a buyer and restructure the company's debts failed, leaving creditors facing substantial losses.

Once a pioneer of modern retail in India, Future Retail struggled financially after a planned acquisition by Reliance Retail fell through. The company's inability to repay its debts led to insolvency proceedings in 2022. The situation worsened as the sale of its profitable stores to Reliance depleted its assets, making it challenging to attract potential buyers.

The NCLT's decision for liquidation means that Future Retail's remaining assets will be sold off to partially repay creditors. However, the recovery is expected to be minimal. This outcome is a significant setback for the company's founder, Kishore Biyani, once hailed as a visionary in India's retail sector. The liquidation marks the collapse of his retail empire.

This case also highlights the volatility and challenges within India's competitive retail market. Future Retail's downfall, despite its early success, serves as a stark reminder of the sector's complexities and the risks involved in large-scale retail operations.

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29 July 2024, Mumbai

India's vibrant fashion scene is facing a fiery challenge: climate change. With increasingly frequent and severe heatwaves, particularly in North-Western regions like Rajasthan and Delhi, the way Indians dress is undergoing a transformation. Let's explore the impact of these scorching summers on fashion trends.

Data from the World Weather Attribution initiative paints a concerning picture. The likelihood of extreme heatwaves in India has risen a staggering 45 times due to climate change. This primarily affects the densely populated Indo-Gangetic plains and central India, where heatwaves are becoming longer and more intense.

Shifting styles from fabric to fashion

The most immediate impact is on fabric choices. Traditionally heavy fabrics like brocade and silks, especially popular in wedding attire and formal wear, are taking a backseat. "Customers are actively seeking lightweight materials like cotton mulmul and khadi," says Mumbai-based designer Anya Rao, "Natural fibers that breathe are becoming the new gold standard."

The shift extends beyond fabrics. Sari drapes are getting shorter and more manageable, while kurta pyjamas are opting for looser fits. "Sales of dhotis, which were already declining, have almost plummeted," says Delhi-based menswear designer Shrey Jain, "The comfort factor is paramount now."

Breathable materials like cotton and khadi are gaining popularity, points out Aisha Rao. There is an increase in demand for breezy cotton kurtas and flowy dresses. Synthetic fabrics are taking a backseat due to their heat-trapping properties.

Long-term impact

In the long-run, heatwaves impact on Indian fashion is a double-edged sword. While summers are undeniably hotter, some experts believe winters might become milder due to climate change. This could lead to a potential year-round focus on lightweight, breathable clothing. However, there's also a concern about unpredictable weather patterns. "We might see a rise in 'transitional' clothing that works for both hot and slightly cooler days," says Rao.

Meanwhile consumers are also becoming more environmentally conscious. A 2023 survey by Assocham Social Responsibility Council found 72 per cent Indian millennials are willing to pay a premium for sustainable clothing. This shift in consumer behavior is likely to incentivize brands to adopt greener practices.

However, Indian fashion industry is known for its resilience and ability to adapt. This heatwave challenge is no different. Sustainable and eco-friendly fabrics like organic cotton and bamboo are gaining traction due to their breathability and lower environmental impact. Additionally, innovations in textile technology, like moisture-wicking fabrics, are being explored to combat the rising heat.

The future of Indian fashion is likely to be a blend of tradition and innovation. Designers will need to balance the rich heritage of Indian textiles with the practicalities of a warming climate. As Jain puts it, "We need to find a way to be comfortable in our own skin, and in our clothes, in this new reality."

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 29 July 2024, Mumbai

Grappling with a prolonged slowdown in consumption, major retail chains in India like Reliance Retail, Shoppers Stop, and Spencer’s Retailare embarking on cost cutting initiatives including exiting unprofitable markets, and raising debts.

Having persisted for over 18 months, the current slowdown was exacerbated by an extended election season and heatwaves across several regions last quarter. Companies that rapidly expanded their store networks to capitalise on post-pandemic revenge shopping are now rationalising their operations to sustain business, according to executives.

In the last three months ending June 2024, India’s largest retailer, Reliance Retail, closed 249 stores. The company also decelerated its expansion, opening 331 new stores in the quarter compared to 470-800 stores per quarter in FY22, FY23, and FY24. Consequently, Reliance Retail made 82 net new store additions last quarter—the lowest in 15 quarters.

Spencer’s Retail has decided to exit the North and South India markets entirely, closing 49 stores in the National Capital Region (NCR), Andhra Pradesh, and Telangana. This move will eliminate Rs 490 crore in annual revenue, but the company hopes it will enhance profitability.

Kavindra Mishra, CEO, Shoppers Stop, informs, forced by regulatory and other issues, the company aims to defer store openings this fiscal year. Additionally, it also plans to borrow Rs 100 crore for expansion as demand remains weak.

V-Mart Retail closed 22 stores in the first six months of 2024, according to its latest investor presentation. The company is pruning underperforming locations during these times of demand stress, says DevangshuDutta, CEO, Third Eyesight, a retail sector consulting firm

Analysts note, banking on pent-up demand and revenge shopping, most retailers expanded rapidly after the pandemic. However, now with demand being sluggish, the industry has initiated measures to sustain operations.

Led by Dinesh Taluja, CEO, Reliance Retailis streamlining operations to improve margins while Spencer’s Retail is closing 49 stores that account for nearly 22 per cent of its revenue. The company now plans to focus on Uttar Pradesh and the East, notes Anuj Singh, CEO.

The sustained demand slowdown led chains like Pantaloons, Spencer's Retail, and Nature’s Basket to close more stores than they opened last fiscal year. Retailers such as V-Mart Retail, W, Aurelia, and Titan Eye+ experienced a higher rate of store closures than openings in the March quarter.

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30 July 2024, Mumbai

Launched on the runway at Hyundai India Couture Week, designer Dolly J's latest collection, ‘La Vie En Rose’celebrated classic desi femininity with a fairytale-inspired theme. Held at the Taj Palace in New Delhi, the show presented a blend of traditional and fusion wear, featuring lehengas, shararas, and gowns adorned with sparkling beaded details and tactile appliqués.

The collection emphasised soft hues, with fabrics like chiffon, tulle, and silk organza, providing a light and ethereal look. Maxi skirts contrasted with structured bodice tops, and models complemented the ensembles with soft glam makeup and classic updos.

The highlight of the show was Bollywood actress SonakshiSinha walking as the showstopper in a blush pink gown with a structured bodice and waterfall-style sleeves. The collection was accentuated by fine jewelry from Shailjas Natural Diamonds, adding a touch of elegance to the dreamy aesthetic.

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29 July 2024, Mumbai

Celebrity weddings in India are not just about extravagant ceremonies and A-list guests, they're also a massive driver for the fashion industry. This trend, that got a boost from social media and lavish events, has seen a rise in both Indian designers and global brands catering to the booming bridal wear market.

Indian designers take center stage

Traditionally, Indian weddings were a showcase for opulent ethnic wear. This trend continues, but with a twist. Designers like Rahul Mishra, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, and Manish Malhotra have become household names, creating intricate bridal lehengas and wedding ensembles that blend heritage with modern aesthetics. Their success is evident in the long waiting lists and the significant rise in their businesses, driven largely by weddings.

Celebrity influence

High-profile weddings like Virat Kohli and Anushka Sharma's in 2017, and more recently, Radhika Merchant and Anant Ambani's pre-wedding festivities, have put Indian fashion in the spotlight. These events, splashed across social media and traditional media, serve as major advertisements for the designers chosen by the bride, groom, and their families.

While designers remain tight-lipped about exact costs, the price range can be staggering. For instance, bespoke lehengas by Manish Malhotra can range from Rs 5 lakh to Rs14 lakh, depending on the intricacy of the embroidery. Similarly, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla's creations start at Rs 3 lakh and can go up to Rs15 lakh per piece.

Global brands get a slice of the pie

While Indian designers reign supreme, global brands are not to be left out. The Ambani wedding celebrations showcased high fashion labels like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Roberto Cavalli alongside Indian designers. Even for non-celebrity weddings, the influence of global brands is undeniable, with brides and guests seeking a curated, uniform aesthetic.

A pan-India trend

The wedding fashion boom isn't limited to big cities. Statista, a European data firm, reports that prominent Tier II cities are witnessing significant growth in fashion spending, driven largely by weddings. This is attributed to rapid urbanization and growing prosperity in these regions.

The Indian fashion industry is on a steady growth path, projected to reach $200 billion by 2030. This is being pushed up by a growing affluent class, rising disposable income, and increasing e-commerce penetration. With celebrity weddings continuing to grab headlines and social media attention, Indian designers and global brands alike can expect to benefit from this booming market.

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29 July 2024, Mumbai

French casualwear giant Lacoste has inaugurated a new store spanning 1,400 sqft in Bhatinda, Punjab.

The new outlet raises the total store count of Lacoste in Punjab to four with other locations being Amritsar, Chandigarh, Jalandhar, and Ludhiana, states Abhishek Raj, Chief Operating office.

Indicating the brand’s strong appeal amongst younger, almost one-third of Lacoste’s sales in India are generated by the youth demographic, as per a report by IndiaRetailing. The brand offers a diverse products range including apparel, accessories, leather goods, watches, sunglasses, perfumes, footwear, and underwear, catering to a variety of fashion needs.

Since its entry into the Indian market in 1993, Lacoste has expanded to over 50 stores across more than 20 cities. Founded by French tennis player René Lacoste and co-founder André Gillier, the brand is the first label to feature a logo on its clothing.

Today, Lacoste operates over 1,000 stores and has 15,000 points of sale in 98 countries. Additionally, its products are available through 32 online stores worldwide, ensuring a robust global presence.

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30 July 2024, Mumbai

Now available at Bata India, America's renowned fashion accessories brand, Nine West has teamed up with India's leading couturier AmitAggarwal to unveil their latest collections at the FDCI India Couture Week. The collaboration artfully explores the concept of 'Time' from various perspectives, showcasing the future of fashion in India. The new collections of both these brands reflect the spirit of the modern Indian woman—mysterious and inspired by the ever-changing landscape of global fashion.

DeepikaDeepti, Head –Marketing, Bata India, states, the runway-ready heels by Nine West paired with Agarwal’s avant-garde couture create a perfect blend for a stylish spectacle. The availability of these heels at select Bata stores across the country and on Bata.com, make runway-inspired footwear accessible to everyone.

Attended by the country's top fashion critics, style icons, and influencers, the runway presentation featured Aggarwal's stunning designs paired with Nine West's latest collection. The collaboration celebrated the empowered women of today, featuring an exquisite array of sleek embellished stilettos and metallic heels alongside Aggarwal's 'Antevorata' collection, showcasing modern femininity and timeless couture elegance.

Footwear from the showcase will be available for purchase at select Bata stores across India and on bata.com, offering fashion enthusiasts the chance to incorporate these runway-inspired pieces into their special occasion wardrobes.

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 29 July 2024, Mumbai

Designer JJ Valaya unveiled his new autumn/winter collection, ‘Muraqqa’ at the India Couture Week 2024.

A tribute to the enduring legacy of Islamic art, the collection capturesthe essence of the traditional muraqqa—a term historically referring to a patchwork manuscript. It weaves together the artistic influenceand aesthetic heritage of the three iconic capitals: Istanbul, Isfahan, and Delhi.

Each piece in the collection symbolises the timeless beauty and intricate craftsmanship synonymous with these cultural centres. It narratesa tale of tradition and opulence while embracing contemporary design elements.

Inspired by the beautifully decorated albums in the Islamic world known as Muraqqa, the collection offers a modern interpretation of the artistic legacies of these capitals. It celebrates the depth and beauty of Islamic art by connecting the past with the present.

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27 July 2024, Mumbai

Expanding its retail footprint in Maharashtra, premium apparel brand Ranna Gill has launched its maiden store in the Kopa Mall, Pune.

Marking the brand's 10th flagship location in India, the new store features a glass façade with an ivory and gold interior. It offers a serene, oasis-like atmosphere. The store launched with Gill’s Summer 2024 collection including printed sets, floral blazers, and other fusion-style women’s ready-to-wear items.

Gill already operates five exclusive brand outlets in the Delhi NCR area and four in Mumbai. The brand also sells directly to customers through its e-commerce store and plans to further expand its physical presence across India. The brand’s store in Hyderabad, Bengaluru, and Ludhiana are set to open soon.

Launched by designer Ranna Gillafter her graduation from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, the eponymous brand retails across the globe through multi-brand boutique Anthropologie.

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