The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) predicts a staggering loss of Rs 5,000-7,000 crore for MSME apparel manufacturers in the January-March quarter.
This forecast comes as a consequence of an amendment to the Income Tax Act, mandating payments to MSMEs within 45 days. The association attributes this loss to retailers canceling orders with MSMEs and favoring non-MSME players due to the stringent payment terms.
Traditionally, the retail industry operates on a credit cycle spanning 90-120 days, sometimes stretching to 180 days. However, an amendment introduced last year, Section 43B(h), stipulates that payments to MSMEs beyond 45 days are considered taxable income until settled.
This amendment poses significant challenges for retailers, prompting discussions on returning unsold merchandise to manufacturers to avoid payment obligations.
Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor at CMAI, elucidates that retailers are likely to shift orders away from MSMEs to evade compliance with the 45-day payment window.
In response, the CMAI has petitioned Union Finance Minister Nirmala Sitaraman, advocating for a phased reduction in credit days over three years. They propose a gradual transition to a maximum credit period of 90 days by March 2025, 60 days by March 2026, and finally 45 days by March 2027.
Acknowledging the government's efforts to address MSME challenges, the CMAI emphasizes the need for sector-specific considerations, highlighting concerns like order cancellations. The association underscores the importance of fostering a transparent and compliant business environment while navigating the complexities of the garment sector.
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An iconic brand synonymous with Indian elegance and heritage, Singhania's, has opened a dedicated second floor showroom at their prestigious Banjara Hills location. This new haven caters to discerning clients seeking a seamless fusion of tradition and contemporary style, offering an exquisite array of ready-to-wear garments.
For generations, Singhania's has been a champion of India's vibrant handloom traditions. To ensure the highest standards and support local communities, they've meticulously built printing, embroidery, silk spinning units, and more.
Handpicked directly from artisans across the nation, the second floor collection boasts a captivating range including opulent bridal lehengas, reception gowns, salwar suits and Kurtas.
Singhania's also offers bespoke service to its clients. The brand has in-house fashion designers and experts who collaborate with clients to bring their sartorial dreams to life.
Singhania's showroom remains a beacon of luxury, elegance, and tradition in the global fashion landscape. The brand’s commitment to preserve India's rich textile heritage while embracing contemporary trends ensures they remain relevant for generations to come.
A leading apparel supplier and branded home furnishing player, Bella Casa Fashion & Retail Ltd reported its results for Q3 FY24 and 9M FY24 ended December 31, 2023. The company delivered a solid performance, marking consistent revenue growth and maintaining profitability.
The company’s revenues surged by 12.08 per cent Y-o-Y to Rs 58 crore in Q3 FY24. However, revenues declined slightly compared to Q2 FY24. Cumulative revenue for 9M FY24 reached Rs. 169.0 crore, reflecting steady growth.
Bella Casa’s operating profit improved by 7.7 per cent to Rs 4.5 crores in Q3 FY24. Its Profit Before Tax (PBT) stood at Rs. 3.2 crore, maintaining consistent performance Y-o-Y. Profit After Tax (PAT) reached Rs. 2.5 crore in Q3 FY24, showing a marginal decline Q-o-Q but an improvement Y-o-Y.
The company handled 35 per cent higher volumes in Q3 FY24 compared to the same period last year, indicating strong customer acceptance of product designs and execution strategy.
Saurav Gupta, Director, says, the increasing penetration of organised retail presents significant business growth opportunities for the company. It aims to capitalise on this momentum by leveraging its commitment to quality products and strong partnerships within the Indian retail ecosystem.
The kurti, a versatile and stylish tunic popular across India especially among women, has become a staple in the wardrobes across generations. But its appeal goes beyond tradition, evolving into a fashion phenomenon that's driving the ethnic wear market's growth. The market is experiencing explosive growth, driven by a confluence of cultural, economic, and technological factors
Kurti market on the upswing
As per Technavio, Indian ethnic wear market, including kurtis, was estimated to reach $18.68 billion by 2023, growing at a CAGR of 8 per cent. Kurtis alone hold a significant share, contributing to this growth with a projected CAGR of 6.45 per cent, reaching $38.0 billion by 2028 indicates Indian Retailer’s stats.
Kurti market overview
Metric | Value |
Market Size (2023) | $10+ billion |
Growth Rate (CAGR 2023-2028) | 6.45% |
Key Drivers | Rising disposable incomes, fusion trends, e-commerce, sustainability |
Major Manufacturing Hubs | Delhi-NCR, Surat, Jaipur, Kolkata |
“The kurti market is no longer just about festivals and special occasions. It's become an everyday essential for the modern Indian woman," opines Rachita Sharma, Fashion Industry Analyst. Across India, certain places have emerged strong kurti manufacturing hubs. Surat in Gujarat is a leading textile hub that produces a variety of fabrics used in kurtis, from cotton to silk and synthetics. Jaipur in Rajasthan is renowned for its block printing and hand embroidery, Jaipur contributes significantly to designer and artisanal kurtis. Kolkata excels in cotton kurtis and traditional weaves like Dhakai and Murshidabad silk. Chennai is known for its South Indian handloom fabrics like Kanjivaram and Chettinad cotton, Chennai caters to a specific market segment. Delhi-NCR is the hub for traditional and designer kurtis, with a strong presence of skilled artisans and manufacturers.
Meanwhile Tier II, III cities are emerging as major growth drivers of kurtis pushed ahead with rising disposable incomes and fashion awareness. “Online platforms have democratized access to designer kurtis, opening new avenues for growth, says Richa Singh, Founder, The House of Tara.
Another growth trigger is evolving consumer preferences. Younger generations seek fusion styles and comfortable fabrics, pushing the boundaries of traditional designs. Online retail platforms like Myntra, Amazon, and Ajio make kurtis accessible to a wider audience, boosting sales. Then there is celebrity influences as actresses and fashion icons sport designer kurtis that drive trends and inspire consumers.
Growing popularity of brands
While bespoke and smaller brands hold a major share of the market, many brands are playing an active role in spreading the popularity of kurtis. FabIndia, a pioneer in ethnic wear, leverages its strong brand image, diverse product range, and focus on sustainability to cater to a wide audience. Manyavar best known for its wedding wear has expanded with ‘Mohey’ focusing on modern kurtis, targeting a younger audience. "The kurti market is dynamic, and brands need to constantly innovate to cater to evolving consumer preferences," says Sunil Mehta, CEO, Manyavar.
Similarly popular ethnic wear brand Biba caters to a wider range with its diverse kurti collection, offering traditional, contemporary, and workwear options. The House of Tara, an online brand focuses on sustainable and ethical practices, attracting eco-conscious consumers seeking unique kurti designs.
Much like other segments there is strong thrust for sustainability in kurtis market. Consumers are increasingly seeking eco-friendly fabrics and ethical production practices, creating opportunities for sustainable kurti brands. "Sustainability is the future of fashion, and kurti brands that embrace eco-friendly practices will gain a competitive edge," points out Vikram Rao, Founder, sustainable fashion brand.
Indeed, the kurti market is poised for continued growth, driven by changing demographics, evolving consumer preferences, and a thriving online retail landscape. Brands and manufacturers that adapt to these trends and focus on innovation, sustainability, and ethical practices will be well-positioned to capture a share of this dynamic market.
15 February 2024, Mumbai
India's vibrant fashion scene is shadowed by a dark secret: a thriving trade in fake branded garments and accessories. This illicit industry, often euphemistically called ‘first copies', deceives consumers and inflicts losses on legitimate brands.
Scale of the problem
As per the FICCI Report, 2022, the counterfeit market in India accounts for 25–30 percent of all goods sold, with apparel being the top category.
This translates to a staggering Rs 1.5 lakh crore ($20 billion) annually, as per Confederation of Indian Industry estimates.
Interesting data-point
Apparel, footwear, and watch bags are the most counterfeited categories, accounting for almost 31 percent, as per some estimates. Studies reveal a 10-15 percent annual growth in the counterfeit market, highlighting its persistent nature.
Popular brands and luxury labels like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Chanel are frequently imitated, alongside domestic brands like Killer and Mufti.
Much more to it
As per news reports, in March 2021, authorities in Delhi seized a massive haul of counterfeit Gucci bags worth Rs 20 million, highlighting the scale and profitability of the fake market.
Similarly, the Delhi Police seized two crore worth of fake garments from a factory, highlighting the scale of domestic production. Several e-commerce platforms have faced legal action for hosting sellers of counterfeit goods.
At the grass-root of the problem
Studies show, China is the primary source of these fakes, followed by Thailand and Vietnam. Offline markets like Gaffar Market (Delhi) and Vardaan Market (Kolkata) are major hubs for retail.
Street vendors and even some smaller brick-and-mortar stores contribute to the problem. E-commerce platforms, despite efforts to curb the issue, still host vendors selling fakes.
Direct sellers on platforms like Instagram offer "first copies" discreetly.
The primary reason for buying fakes is their significantly lower price, often a fraction of the original brand's cost.
Findings; Mostly popular among young adults, 18–35 years old are the major buyers, followed by middle-aged consumers. What makes them attractive is their affordability and brand names. Lack of awareness about ethical implications is a major motivator.
Combating the issue
Counterfeiting harms legitimate businesses, leading to job losses and reduced tax revenue. Fakes often use inferior materials and lack ethical production standards, raising safety and health concerns.
Legal piece
Counterfeiting also exploits intellectual property and fuels organized crime.
And the issue needs to be combated at various levels. One way is through increased crackdowns and stricter penalties.
Stronger legal frameworks and harsher penalties are crucial to deterring the production and sale of fakes. Educating consumers about the ethical and legal implications of buying fakes is essential. Companies need to invest in robust anti-counterfeiting measures.
Burning issue
Brands need to invest in anti-counterfeiting measures like holograms and track-and-trace technologies.
They also need to collaborate with online platforms to curb the menace.
Combating India's counterfeit fashion market requires a multi-pronged approach.
By understanding the scope, motivations, and distribution channels, stakeholders can work together to protect consumers, legitimate brands, and the Indian economy.
India's Fashion Fake: 3 Key Insights:
1. Billions lost, 31% apparel fakes: Countfeit fashion steals Rs 1.5 lakh crore, with clothes, shoes, and bags most copied.
2. Gucci to Gaffar Market: Big brands and local labels imitated, sold online and offline, with China as a major source.
3. Affordability & ignorance fuel demand: Young buyers drawn to low prices and brand names, unaware of ethical and legal issues.
09 February 2024, Mumbai
The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) has expressed concerns about the recent amendment to the Income Tax Act, which aims to address delayed payments to small and medium enterprises (MSMEs).
While acknowledging the government's efforts, the CMAI argues that the amendment has unintended consequences for the domestic garment industry.
Outlines
CMAI believes the amendment allows MSMEs to claim a deduction on their income tax for delayed payments received from buyers. It leads to order cancellations from retailers due to the increased financial burden.
To avoid this, CMAI recommends a delayed implementation of the amendment. It advocates for a phased decrease in credit periods over three years, reaching 45 days by 2027.
Nuanced view
The association also recommends excluding payments between MSMEs from the amendment's scope. It urges a general reduction in credit periods to 45 days.
CMAI opines that, while intended to help MSMEs, the amendment creates financial strain for the garment industry. For its effective implementation, the government should make gradual changes and exemptions. It should adopt a shorter credit period to promote transparency and efficiency
Overall, the CMAI urges the government to consider their recommendations and find a solution that balances the needs of both MSMEs and the garment industry.
03 February 2024, Mumbai
Held in Mumbai from January 29-31, the National Garment Fair (NGF 2024) Spring-Summer Edition attracted nearly 18,000 visitors and generated strong business activity.
This indicates positive momentum for the upcoming season, despite challenges faced by the industry.
Over 1,025 participants showcased more than 1,120 brands across various categories.
Nuanced view
Encompassing an expansive 700,000 sq. ft. across seven halls, the Spring-Summer Edition of the National Garment Fair 2024 (NGF 2024) was held at the Bombay Exhibition NESCO Complex in Goregaon East.
The trade show recorded robust business bookings and enquiries, suggesting a gradual return to normalcy in H1FY2025. It re-launched the CMAI Apparel magazine with a focus on exclusive content and trends.
Quotes
Rajesh Masand, President, Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), said the revival of the apparel industry post-pandemic has been less than robust, with retailers contending with a substantial backlog of inventory.
The predominant driver of retail sales growth in apparel in the past year has been the result of both store and network expansions.
Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor of the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), added that the notable expansion of major retailers and brands into Tier II and III markets in the past year played a substantial role in driving retail sales growth within the apparel segment.
This year, consumers are expected to refresh their wardrobes, signaling a return to normalcy in shopping pattern's significance.
Leading casualwear brand in India, the US Polo Assn, unveiled its biggest yet Indian store in Jayanagar, Bengaluru. Spanning over 6,190 sq f across three floors, this new store aims to be a game-changer for the brand's retail experience in India.
Inspired by the sport of polo, the modern space features sport-themed décor and accessories, immersing shoppers in the brand's story. Combining classic and trendy elements, the store showcases the brand's diverse product range, including polo shirts, denims, sweaters, jackets, T-shirts, etc.
This store is the first to offer the brand's new SS'24 womenswear collection, previously available only online. It also houses all other product categories, including USPA Mainline, USPA Sport, Denim & Co, Footwear, Kidswear, Accessories, and Innerwear.
The store reflects the brand’s commitment to cater to the evolving fashion preferences of Indian consumers, who are increasingly on par with their global counterparts, says Amitabh Puri, CEO
With over 400 brand stores and 2,000 shop-in-shops across 200 Indian cities, US Polo Assn continues to expand its retail footprint, and this new flagship store marks a significant step in their journey.
Renowned American fashion brand, Guess, has expanded its footprint in South India with a brand new store at Inorbit Mall in Hyderabad. Marking a significant step in Guess's retail expansion strategy, this store strengthens the brand’s presence in the growing South Indian market.
The new store boasts a wide range of clothing options for men, women, and children, along with a diverse selection of fashion accessories like watches, jewelry, fragrances, and footwear.
Established in 1981, Guess has become a global symbol of denim-inspired fashion.
The brand entered into India in 2012 and operates through a distributor model. With this new store in Hyderabad, the brand makes a potential shift towards establishing a more direct retail presence in the Indian market.
With over 1,608 stores in 80 countries as of 2023, Guess continues to expand its reach and cater to a diverse customer base. This new Hyderabad store is a testament to Guess's commitment to the Indian market and its potential for growth.
A garment manufacturer and exporter, Gokaldas Exports has signed a definitive agreement to acquire the apparel business of Matrix Clothing for Rs 489 crore. This strategic move strengthens Gokaldas' position in the knitwear segment besides introducing new customers, and expanding its geographic reach to Europe.
Known for its high-quality knitwear for men, women, and children, Matrix Clothing caters to renowned brands and operates five manufacturing facilities in India. Its strong performance and established customer base align well with Gokaldas' growth aspirations.
The acquisition creates a more comprehensive offering for Gokuldas Exports as the company benefits from Matrix’s expertise in knitwear. Matrix's established customer relationships in Europe also broaden Gokaldas' reach beyond its traditional markets. Its strengthens Gokuldas Exports’ operations in Europe.
Despite an industry-wide decline in apparel exports, Gokaldas demonstrated resilience in Q3FY24. Outperforming the industry, the company’s revenues grew by 6 per cent Y-o-Y. It’s profit after tax declined by 25 per cent Y-o-Y. The company maintained healthy margins, reflecting efficient operations and cost control.
In 2024, Gokuldas Exports expects a positive momentum driven by improving supply chain trends and normalised ordering patterns. The company expects sequential growth is anticipated in the coming quarters, fueled by the Matrix acquisition and other growth initiatives.
The acquisition of Matrix Clothing marks a significant step for Gokaldas Exports. By expanding its product portfolio, diversifying its customer base, and strengthening its geographic presence, the company is well-positioned for sustainable growth in the years to come.
Apparel giant Gokaldas Exports has finalised the acquisition of Coral Investments and its subsidiary, Ashton Apparel Manufacturing. This strategic takeover positions Gokaldas to dominate the industry with a broader product range, stronger manufacturing capabilities, and a wider global reach.
Gokaldas acquired 100 per cent shares of Coral Investments through its Dubai subsidiary Nava Apparels, indirectly gaining control of Ashton Apparel. The move expands Gokaldas' market presence, potentially leading to economies of scale and market leadership.
The merged entity will have a wider product portfolio, enhanced manufacturing capabilities, and a larger global footprint. With this acquisition, Gokaldas reaffirms its commitment to quality and positions itself to meet the industry's ever-changing demands. The acquisition propels Gokaldas Exports towards industry dominance and sets the stage for its future growth.
Kidswear and nursery brand Mamas & Papas has appointed Sarah Ashby as its new Chief Financial Officer.
Prior to joining Mamas & Papas, Ashby was engaged as a senior director of finance for projects and M&A at Asda. She has also been responsible for managing the finances of the large supermarket chain’s George clothes brand in addition to its apparel and general retail departments.
A founder and President of the Oxford Women in Business club, Ashby has also held comparable senior and director finance posts at Pladis Global, The Kraft Heinz Company, and Procter & Gamble.
Her appointment follows Mamas & Papas announcement of an accelerated expansion strategy after registering a 17 per cent increase in revenue for the 13-week period ending on December 31, 2023.
The retailer’s profits increased by an additional 50 per cent during this period. This growth was observed in all of its business’s channels including the brand-owned stores, concessions, and internet platform.
Owned by the Apparel Group, Fashion brand R&B has opened its sixth store in Bengaluru and 18th in India. Located in HSR Layout, the spacious 12,000 sq.ft. store offers a curated selection of trendy and affordable apparel for men, women, and children.
This opening highlights R&B's commitment to strengthening its presence in India and meeting the evolving fashion needs of Indian consumers. The bright and inviting store features dedicated sections for each category, catering to a wide range of age groups and styles.
The store promotes diversity and body positivity by offering a vast array of sizes. Customers can find a mix of international trends and versatile everyday wear, along with footwear, beauty products, toys, and accessories.
Launched in October 2012, R&B currently operates over 123 stores across seven countries. This new flagship store in Bengaluru signifies their commitment to the Indian market and their plans for further expansion.
Abhishek Bajpai, CEO, Apparel Group India, says, the launch of this store aligns perfectly with the brand’s plans for expansion in India. The store offers an exceptional blend of style, quality, and shopping comfort.