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Cotton Revolution: Better Cotton Initiative Unveiled

17 May 2023, Mumbai

Better Cotton, one of the world's leading cotton sustainability initiatives, has taken a significant step forward by signing a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with Tajikistan, making it the first Central Asian country to join forces and promote the production of sustainable cotton. 

What all you need to know

Momentous

The MoU was formalized during the Tajikistan Investment and Development Forum held in London, aiming to bolster sustainable cotton production in Tajikistan while prioritizing environmental and social outcomes as well as overall agricultural sustainability.

Both Better Cotton and Tajikistan will collaborate on developing a strategic roadmap for sustainable cotton production in the country, aligning with the Better Cotton Standard System and global market requirements. 

This partnership marks an important milestone, as Tajikistan becomes the inaugural Central Asian nation to engage with the Better Cotton Initiative. 

With 1,057 licensed farmers already on board and producing 14,000 tons of better cotton across 14,000 hectares of land, Tajikistan's cotton farming sector is primed for further growth and support.

Nuts & bolts

As part of its commitment to sustainability, Better Cotton has also provided input to the United States Federal Trade Commission (FTC) regarding its Guides for the Use of Environmental Marketing Claims (Green Guides). 

The FTC, a bipartisan federal agency dedicated to consumer protection, established the Green Guides in 1992 to ensure that companies' claims about product sustainability are accurate and backed by evidence. 

Periodically updated to align with contemporary standards, the Green Guides offer comprehensive guidelines for environmental marketing claims, including methods for substantiating claims and ways to prevent consumer deception.

Better Cotton Initiative's Input to FTC Guidelines

Better Cotton actively participated in the ongoing review process, striving to ensure that the FTC's guidelines acknowledge the agricultural aspect of cotton production and recognize progress at the field level. 

The organization's Claims Framework, a key component of the Better Cotton Standard System (BCSS), assists eligible members in transparently and credibly communicating their commitment to Better Cotton.

Recos

While supporting the FTC's initiative to establish a common framework for credible and accurate sustainability communication by US companies, Better Cotton recommends enhancing the existing guidance. 

Rather than mandating a single standardized methodology, such as lifecycle analysis (LCA) or product environmental footprints (PEF), for substantiating claims, Better Cotton suggests including examples of substantiation using various methods. 

It argues that no one-size-fits-all methodology can adequately cover all relevant impact categories for every product type.

Navigating Environmental Claims

Furthermore, implementing a single methodology like LCA poses challenges when applied to an agricultural context. If the revised Guides adopt this approach, it would hinder trusted sustainability schemes and their labels from providing environmental marketing claims for their members. 

Better Cotton advocates for flexibility in substantiation methods to accommodate diverse products and impact categories, ensuring a fair competitive environment for businesses while empowering them to communicate ambitious sustainability goals to an increasingly eco-conscious consumer base.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): SDGs are central to the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development

BCI benchmarks Greek certification as equivalent to its own standards; Through the Better Cotton Standard System, the sector aims to embed social, environmental, and economic sustainability into cotton production around the globe. 

Better Cotton embraces the SDGs holistically and is inspired to be part of a global community working to make the world a better place.

Vision:

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) aspires to achieve global sustainability in cotton production, ensuring that all cotton is cultivated using sustainable practices.

Mission

BCI's mission is to enhance worldwide cotton production for the benefit of farmers, the environment, and the industry's future. 

BCI fosters collaboration among stakeholders across the cotton supply chain, driving measurable and ongoing improvements in environmental impact, the well-being of farming communities, and the economic growth of cotton-producing regions.

Insights

Recognizing the interconnected nature of the cotton industry and its stakeholders, BCI emphasizes cooperation and shared responsibility. 

By instigating positive and lasting changes, BCI addresses environmental and social challenges associated with cotton production.

Technical Analysis

BCI employs sustainable practices encompassing pesticide reduction, water conservation, biodiversity protection, and improved livelihoods for cotton farmers. Through its comprehensive framework, BCI facilitates the adoption of these practices and encourages continuous improvement. 

This approach aligns with BCI's mission to transform the cotton industry into a more sustainable and equitable sector.

Scope of BCI

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) has recently conducted a comprehensive study in India, in collaboration with Wageningen University and Research from 2019 to 2022, to assess the impact of their program on cotton farming. 

The study, titled 'Towards more sustainable cotton farming in India,' highlights the remarkable benefits experienced by Better Cotton farmers in the region. 

By implementing BCI's recommended agricultural practices, these farmers have achieved notable improvements in profitability, reduced reliance on synthetic inputs, and overall sustainability in their farming methods.

Construct

The findings of the study provide compelling evidence of the positive outcomes resulting from the adoption of Better Cotton's sustainable practices. 

Notably, the implementation of these practices has led to enhanced financial viability for cotton farmers, contributing to their long-term economic stability. 

By embracing environmentally friendly techniques, farmers have been able to decrease their dependence on synthetic inputs, thereby minimizing their environmental impact and promoting ecological balance.

Helicopter view

Furthermore, the study emphasizes the holistic approach of the Better Cotton program, which prioritizes not only economic gains but also ecological preservation and social well-being. 

By following the recommended practices, Better Cotton farmers actively contribute to the preservation of natural resources, the reduction of negative impacts on ecosystems, and the promotion of biodiversity.

The research conducted by Wageningen University and Research serves as a significant milestone in validating the effectiveness and value of the Better Cotton program in India. 

Providing valuable insights

It offers valuable insights for policymakers, stakeholders, and the agricultural community, providing a roadmap for promoting sustainable farming practices and ensuring the long-term resilience of the cotton industry.

The study's findings not only highlight the benefits for Better Cotton farmers but also underscore the potential for broader adoption of sustainable practices within the cotton industry. 

By embracing the principles and guidelines set by Better Cotton, the entire sector can strive towards a more sustainable and environmentally conscious approach to cotton farming, benefiting farmers, consumers, and the planet.

Sustainable Synergy

As the Better Cotton program continues to grow and make an impact, studies like these serve as a reminder of the transformative power of sustainable farming practices. 

By supporting and empowering farmers to adopt sustainable approaches, initiatives such as Better Cotton play a crucial role in reshaping the cotton industry and paving the way for a greener and socially responsible future.

Better Cotton, the largest cotton sustainability initiative in the world, has updated its Principles & Criteria (P&C) to ensure continuous improvement and sustainability impact at the field-level.

The P&C establishes the requirements farmers must comply with to obtain a license and sell their cotton as “Better Cotton.” More than two million farmers worldwide hold a license under this initiative.

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Shift in Indian Apparel Consumer Behavior

11 May 2023, Mumbai 

After the pandemic, at least 68 percent of Indians want to maintain healthy eating and living practices. More information and analysis should be provided regarding the availability of clean and green products in India.

In collaboration with Kadence International, OneGreen, one of Asia's largest online marketplaces for conscious, healthy, clean, and sustainable products, undertook a poll to gauge consumer attitudes towards conscious, eco-friendly products and healthy living. 

What all you need to know

Since women are the primary decision-makers and are responsible for most lifestyle changes in Indian households, their influence on purchasing behavior has been discovered to be significant. 

Green is the colour to go

Going green is the new black, and the statistics show how Indian customers move in that direction. While 6 out of 10 respondents claimed to base their purchasing decisions on their environmental impact, 8 out of 10 Indians reported a change in their purchasing behavior centered on their health and well-being.

Even in price-sensitive Tier I and II cities, almost 57% of consumers are willing to spend more on authentic green and healthy items. 

In 2023, around 71 percent of respondents stated they planned to lead a greener lifestyle. According to the report, 8 out of 10 respondents now purchase high-quality goods, such as organic and secure products.

And seven out of ten survey participants purchase eco-friendly or sustainable goods out of concern for the environment. 

Dynamic landscape

The Indian retail industry is undergoing a significant transformation from traditional structures to modern organized retailing, similar to global trends. Despite the slow start in organized retailing, India is predicted to lead the industry and secure the second position shortly. 

Factors such as an increasing number of working women, rising disposable incomes, cheap credit availability, price differentiation, similar product quality, and the use of media for product positioning and sales have driven the dynamic Indian organized retail landscape.

Changing lifestyle

To leverage the benefits of this exponentially growing market, it is essential to study consumer behavior.

However, Indian literature is deficient in this regard. Retail offerings cater to changing lifestyles, fashion, and ever-changing consumer behavior, particularly in the apparel industry.

Understanding the factors that influence consumer buying behavior in the apparel segment of the Indian retail sector is crucial.

Pandemic impact

The pandemic has accelerated the growth of e-commerce across all industries, with consumers opting for online shopping for even their daily necessities to avoid public spaces. The new-age consumer is well-informed and aware of possible limitations in product availability and delivery delays.

Consequently, they tend to buy products in bulk, preparing for future needs while seeking bulk discounts for volume purchases.

Adaptability is the key

To capitalize on this trend, fashion and apparel brands need to understand their customers better and create bundles of fashion wear that consumers are more likely to put to use today.

Brands that can offer discounts on bulk purchases will be more likely to capture this market segment. By understanding customer preferences and behavior, brands can tailor their offerings to meet the evolving needs of the Indian retail market.

Consumer choices and their importance

Consumers in India change their clothing preferences frequently. The clothing choices firmly anchored in the vastness and complexity of Indian culture are now aligning with more sophisticated and globally in-vogue styles.

More variety and market sectors exist in modern Indian clothing than ever before.

Formal, semi-formal, casual, athletic, ethnic, seasonal, leisure, party clothes, and more categories are included. This change is the result of Indian consumers' extensive exposure.

With a median age of 27 years and the largest Generation Y population in the world, Indian consumers tend to be more experimental, inclusive, and tolerant of various social structures. 

The reality of the day 

Since they began earning money at a younger age, they are more time-poor, financially wealthy, and more likely to spend their money on better and more aspirational things.

Their clothing consumption also reflects these cultural, psychography, and conduct changes. Over the following ten years, India's economy is gauged to grow at a CAGR of 7 to 9%, resulting in higher per capita income. 

Consumers will have more to spend and be more enthusiastic about buying clothing as wallet sizes grow.

By 2023, clothing spending per person will increase from INR 3,900 in 2018 to INR 6,400. It is anticipated that by 2023, total Indian garment consumption expenditures will increase to INR 9.35 lac crores.

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Indian Apparel Industry Shows Signs of Recovery from COVID-19 Impact

17 May 2023, Mumbai

The Indian textile and apparel industry's sales and EBIDTA drastically decreased in the first half of FY 21. However, there have been indications of a remarkable rebound as of Q2 FY21. The covid-19 pandemic hurt the textile industry's sales and profitability.
Historical view
Due to the pandemic, the Wazir Textile Index (WTI) had a sharp decline in revenues and EBIDTA in H1 FY21. Compared to H1 FY20, overall sales in H1 FY21 decreased by 36%. Compared to H1 FY20, the overall EBITDA fell by 58% in the first half of FY21. Costs associated with labor and raw materials (RM) fell by 36% and 23%, respectively, over the same period.
About the market performance of the Indian textiles industry, the most recent edition of the WTI, which includes the highlights of the cumulative financial performance of the top Indian textile businesses, has recently been released for H1 FY21.
Snapshot
The WTI reports that the combined sales of the top 10 companies were $12,934 crore in the first quarter of FY21 as opposed to $20,235 crore in the same period last year, a decrease of 36%.

For the top corporations chosen, the average EBITDA margin fell by 4.5 percentage points in H1 FY21 compared to H1 FY20. Compared to the same time in the prior fiscal year, the average personnel cost climbed by 2.3 percentage points in H1 FY21, while the average RM cost declined by 0.3 percentage points.
India's GDP shrank by a record 15.8% in the first half of FY21, falling from $71.3 lakh crore same as last year to $60 lakh crore.
Titbits
Comparing H1 FY21 to H1 FY20, the average Index of Industrial Production (IIP) for garments declined by 47%, while that for textiles experienced a significant decline of 44%. Compared to H1 FY20, the Wholesale Price Index (WPI) for textiles fell by 4% in H1 FY21, while the WPI for garments fell by 0.4%.
The exports of textiles and apparel (T&A) fell by 29% from H1 FY20 to $11.9 billion in H1 FY21. The most significant drops, at 49% and 39%, were seen in the exports of filament and clothing, respectively. With a combined share of 57%, the US, EU-28, and UAE continue to be India's leading export markets for T&A products.
Due to an increase in cotton exports in response to the US embargo on acquiring cotton goods from China, fiber exports in Q2 FY21 showed a considerable recovery of 78% yearly. Exports of home textiles experienced a steady recovery in Q2, driven by solid hygiene and wellness demand in the US and EU.
The current crisis has caused the clothing industry to undergo a "refresh" period. The stakeholders never anticipated the pandemic's duration or effects. As change is necessary for every industry, it is time to deal with the crisis using several managerial methods to help it recover.
This section offers a series of recommendations especially suited for the Indian context while considering the industry's size. An extensive value chain may be seen in the Indian market.

The economy sustains everything, from the primary component to the ultimate consumer.
Big box shops significantly increased their market share in the past ten years because they were better at designing fashion products and had higher social standing.
The winner takes it all
Major markets in major cities were taken over by foreign brands, forcing domestic brands to relocate to smaller towns to stay in business. Through its Make in India (2014) efforts, the Indian government has consistently emphasized domestic goods.
These programs were developed to support Indian entrepreneurs and fight against imports and foreign brands. A present shift in the market serves as a good illustration; due to the pandemic, Indian firms have completely stopped importing goods from China.
Spar over borders
Due to political unrest, 118 Chinese apps, including TikTok and Shareit, were also blocked. Consumer attitude toward local brands has been sparked across industries by this movement.

Still, for businesses to capture market share, they must create fashionable goods that are both trendy and unique.
With a population of over a billion, the Indian consumer market is pretty sizable. The industry may experience typical growth in the desired amount of time if provided with the correct goods.
The entire value chain will begin to recover from the crisis and stop depending on imports once local fashion products become popular in the market.

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Denimwear market: An overview

10 May 2023, Mumbai 

The jeanswear market is expected to experience substantial growth, with a projected value of USD 118.28 billion by 2030, up from USD 66.77 billion in 2021, representing a CAGR of 8.51% from 2023 to 2030.

This growth is attributed to several factors, including the popularity of jeans among younger consumers due to their comfort, durability, and versatility.

Genesis

Later developed in American mills, the latter was initially invented in England. The durable and rigid fabric known as denim is created from cotton or cotton blends using a two-toned weaving technique that produces a diagonal pattern from tightly packed fibers. The method described above, which places natural or white yarn in the weft (horizontal) position and dyed thread in the warp, gives jeans their distinctive blue appearance.

Story of cotton or a cotton blend

Clothing made of denim is often made of cotton or a cotton blend. Before being packed into bales, it is first gathered and sorted into fibers. Our denim fabric construction tutorial on Textile School explains that the fabric goes through a weaving process to create yarn dyed into indigo or other colors, depending on the design, to make a pair of jeans.

Sustainability angle

Water thirsty; As was previously said, cotton or cotton blends are used to create modern denim. So, since it's primarily made of natural fiber, how much influence may it have on the environment?

Despite being a raw material, cotton is a very thirsty crop and is not as sustainable as it may seem. A standard cotton pair of denim jeans can require more than 9,000 gallons of water to create, accounting for 69% of the water footprint of textile fiber manufacturing.

Manufacturers in developed economies are investing in creating the "perfect fit" jeans, which has driven product innovation in the market.

They are also incorporating synthetic fibers to offer stretchability, enhancing customer appeal. Moreover, rising living standards and increased consumer awareness of various jean styles, including boot cut, high rise, cropped, skinny, tapered, and regular fit, are contributing to market expansion.

A bird's eyeview

For decades, denim has been a staple in wardrobes around the world and an essential in the fashion industry. The global denim market is predicted to grow at a CAGR of over 6.5% between 2015 and 2020, increasing from $113 billion to $153 billion.

In India, the denim market is experiencing the fastest growth rate among apparel fabrics, with a consistent CAGR of 15% to 18% annually.

Due to high demand, the current installed capacity of nearly 1,200 million meters is expected to rise to 2,000 million meters in the next three to four years. India has a significant advantage in the global market, as it has access to all types of cotton and MMF fibers and attracts top global brands.

Industry experts predict that the denim share in international trade could achieve a CAGR of 10% over the next decade.

In terms of retail sales, the Indian denim wear market is forecasted to grow at a CAGR of 15% due to rising disposable incomes, a rapidly expanding retail sector, a westernization trend, a booming internet retailing sector, a young population with higher spending power, and a wide range of consumer segments that consider denim as comfortable and stylish attire of choice.

Potential unlimited

Despite robust growth in the industry in recent years, India's denim market has significant untapped potential. For most of the Indian youth, denim is not just casual wear but a fashion statement.

Nearly 85% of the market is dominated by men, with 10% contributed by the female segment and 5% by the kids segment. 

The growth in the male segment of denim wear is quite significant, and it is no longer limited to urban centers but has gradually expanded to semi-urban and rural markets.

The increasing awareness of global fashion has led to the development of premium and super-premium categories of denim products with smaller base numbers. The Latin Americas and Asia are expected to lead the growth in the segment.

The demand for branded apparel is on the rise, propelling the growth of the jeans market. Additionally, the preference for sustainable denim clothing is increasing globally, presenting opportunities for jeanswear manufacturers to produce denim from recyclable materials, including plastic.

Changing paradigm

The market is witnessing a shift in consumer preferences towards distressed, cropped, and patched jeans, with trendy styles like cropped hems, boyfriend jeans, two-tone jeans, and skinny jeans gaining popularity, especially among the younger generation.

Decorative denim featuring patches, laces, and embroidery is also selling rapidly in the market.

The growing demand for fashionable apparel among the youth population is a key driver of market growth, with denim widely available in casual wear in a range of colors and shades.

Emerging E-commerce; The presence of apparel retail chains and the growth of e-commerce are expected to further boost market expansion. Changing lifestyles, coupled with rising disposable income, are fueling the demand for premium designer denim.

Furthermore, the demand for denim accessories such as bags and shoes is also increasing, creating additional growth opportunities for the jeanswear market.

Sum up

The jeanswear market is expected to experience significant growth in the coming years, driven by product innovation, changing consumer preferences, and the rise of sustainable fashion.

The market presents an array of opportunities for players to capitalize on, particularly in the areas of sustainability and fashion-forward designs.

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Indian Textile Inc Q4FY23 Results Raise Alarms

10 May 2023, Mumbai 

As businesses begin to release their financial information, a credit rating agency predicted on Thursday that India Inc. would likely report a halving of revenue growth in the fourth quarter of FY23.

According to Crisil's Market Intelligence and Analytics division, the revenue growth will drop to 10–12% from 22.8–% for last year's January–March period. 

What all you need to know

Ground reality

Indian textile companies are facing a challenging environment due to multiple headwinds. The industry needs to focus on cost optimization and innovation to stay competitive.

Moreover, adopting digital technologies can help improve efficiency and agility in the supply chain, enabling companies to respond to market changes quickly. While government support is necessary, companies must also take proactive steps to navigate the current crisis.

How are the financials stacked up

According to the report, revenue is predicted to have increased by 19–21% for the entire fiscal year FY23, less than the above 27% growth seen in FY22. The operating margin is also predicted to have slowed by 3 percentage points. 

The major causes of the substantial deceleration in topline growth for Q4FY23 were noted as the high base and the ongoing export challenges that have impacted volume growth, according to Crisil, which examined 300 businesses from 47 different industries to determine the expectations.

Snapshot

According to the report, sales from export-focused industries and commodities such as textiles, gems and jewelry, and information technology-enabled services decreased year over year.

Steel goods, which make up about 11% of the set's income, are predicted to have had a 7-9% year-over-year revenue decline during the March quarter as a result of the application of an export charge in May 2022 and a reduction in worldwide demand due to higher input costs. 

Similarly, it stated that the aluminum industry should have seen a 17–19% decline in revenue due to weak global demand. Ankit Dani, the company's research director, stated that while the need for consumer necessities like pharmaceuticals and fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) continued to expand, consumer discretionary products like airlines, hotels, media and entertainment, and retail were the main drivers of revenue growth.

Thesis

According to the CRISIL SME Tracker, the textile sector in India is expected to sustain the growth it experienced in Financial Year (FY) 2021-22 and recover from the lows it faced during the onset of the pandemic. This growth is due to an improvement in demand for textile products as economic recovery is felt internationally.

The Indian textile sector has also benefited from the US ban on China's Xinjiang cotton, and this trend is expected to continue in the medium term. However, the impact of the Russia-Ukraine crisis remains a concern and needs to be monitored.

In FY21, the cotton yarn market is expected to grow at an impressive rate of 38-42 percent, led by exports, which rapidly picked up from the second quarter. This market is anticipated to grow a further 8-12 percent year-on-year in the upcoming fiscal year due to sustained recovery in both domestic and export markets.

In contrast, Readymade garments (RMG) faced a decline in the previous financial year, but the projection for this year is a growth of 16-20 percent, with a further increase of 13-18 percent expected in FY23. The reopening of offices, commercial premises, and educational institutions is the key driver of this growth.

Furthermore, with the heightened focus on health and hygiene brought on by the pandemic, the home textiles segment is also expected to grow in the upcoming fiscal year.

Overall, the Indian textile sector's growth is driven by improving demand, increased exports, and a focus on health and hygiene, and this trend is expected to continue in the upcoming fiscal year. However, the Russia-Ukraine crisis's impact remains a concern that needs to be monitored closely.

Various important textile parks

The Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel (MITRA) Park scheme, valued at Rs. 4,445 crores (US$ 594.26 million), was approved by the government to establish seven integrated mega textile parks with cutting-edge infrastructure, shared utilities, and R&D labs over three years to give impetus to this sector performance. 

Promotion agencies

Similar to Tiruppur, the Indian government plans to create 75 textile centers that will significantly enhance employment prospects, encourage the export of textile goods, and ensure the use of environmentally friendly technology.

In conjunction with handloom exporters and weavers, the Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC) participates in several international fairs and events to promote the export of handloom items worldwide in support of the National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP). 

In addition, the Ministry of Textiles has been executing the National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP)'s Handloom Marketing Assistance (HMA) component all over India.

Through the organization of expos and events in domestic and international markets, HMA develops and promotes the marketing channel by giving handloom weavers and agencies a platform to sell their goods directly to consumers.

The recent trade pacts are also likely to give a fillip to Indian textile exports case in point are India-Australia & India-UAE anticipated to ramp up total textile exports considerably.

Bird's eye view

Textile exports have also been affected due to the ongoing pandemic. As per the latest data, India's textile and apparel exports declined by 20% to $27 billion in FY22, compared to $34 billion in FY19. The industry is urging the government to provide support and incentives to overcome the current crisis.

The Q4FY23 results of Indian textile companies have raised alarms as the industry faces multiple challenges. Rising input costs, supply chain disruptions, and sluggish demand have impacted the profitability of the sector. The Q4FY23 results indicate that Indian textile companies are grappling with margin pressures due to higher input costs and supply chain disruptions. 

Cautious optimism; For the clothing and textile sectors (RTW) combine, the outlook is cautious given the buoyant domestic demand and moderating raw materials prices when the inflationary pressures have byfar eased and the supply side is broadly stabilized post-pandemic but the elephant in the room is the global challenging demand environment.

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