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Textile Industry & the ESG

07 September 2022, Mumbai:

All corporate stakeholders highly emphasize their commitments to the environment, society, and governance (ESG). These stakeholders, who range from investors to consumers, have made it plain that they want companies to be proactive in addressing ESG risks and opportunities as part of their entire business plan.

In reality, the demand from the stakeholders for business leaders to develop sustainability practices that benefit not just the bottom line but also have a more significant social impact has pushed this interest to a breaking point. Notwithstanding that the textile & apparel/garment sector is one of the biggest job creators and significant forex earners for most of the economies.
Long-term ESG vision
Studies that indicate stakeholders consider ESG accomplishments to be a crucial component of company performance support these demands. Businesses offering ESG more effectively are likely to perform better on traditional metrics. This is why ESG efforts are intensifying, and sustainability is integrating into all phases of the supply chain, from recycling garbage and using eco-friendly raw materials to training suppliers. This affects all industries, and the textile sector is no different.
How to get ESG right for the textile industry
Due to its longstanding reputation as a significant polluter, the textile sector is under pressure to become sustainable, enhance worker safety, and protect consumers' right to make informed decisions. The textile supply chain includes sourcing, production, processing, fabric maintenance, and packing, all of which generate hazardous effluents. All of this must be considered when creating and carrying out mitigation strategies.
Launching the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) program was a significant advancement. The regulation has elevated ESG requirements across industries and gives manufacturers a sizable financial and physical duty for collecting and disposing of post-consumer trash. This has shown us the importance of ESG innovation in addressing global sustainability issues.
Fast Fashion & ESG
The textile industry is changing. Fast fashion, which has come across & seen momentum, and uptake since the 1990s, is posed with greater scrutiny as lenders/investors and end-consumers in the ever-conscious globe weigh up the environmental cost of “disposable/use & throw” apparel/garments. The changing investor demands and consumer behaviour is driving a sustainable rise in the share of such apparel/clothes that ought to be manufactured in nothing short of sustainable ways.
Green compliance: Why anyone should invest
Companies are driven to push an agenda that puts sustainability, social good, and inclusiveness on the same level as profitability and growth by cultural and legislative forces. The necessity of utilizing corporate skills to address actual issues in the real world is essential to this strategy. The EPR is vital at the post-consumer stage as well. More & more manufacturers have gradually agreed to support a reverse collection system and recycling of post-consumer trash.
Greenwashing malaise
As per industry studies, Greenwashing is driving our descent into climate catastrophe. The environment gains by recovering the resources embedded in the garbage and reintroducing them into the system. Additionally, it guards against the terrible practice of "greenwashing," in which a business portrays itself as environmentally conscientious only for marketing purposes while failing to have an impact through its sustainability initiatives.
Carbon Footprint of Textiles
One of the research gate reports states," The textile industry accounts for about 10% of total carbon emissions and has been identified as the fifth largest contributor of carbon footprints". With a focus on lowering or balancing its carbon footprint, the textile sector has taken the lead in making a genuine difference. Responsible sourcing and farming are essential components of ESG activities. This includes producing eco-friendly packaging and regenerative organic farming.
Textile businesses could imitate the post-harvest manufacturing process, which uses recycled water, sustainable energy, and effective operations to create eco-friendly fabrics. Packaging should also include recycled plastic.

The initiatives go well beyond environmentally friendly material manufacture and recycling. Along with that, there have been additional transformations from conventional to renewable energy sources.
Each sector needs a long-term ESG vision.
In reality, how the textile sector uses resources, recycles goods, reduces waste, and influences the community will determine its very future. The industry's future structure and character will depend on how it reacts to this need.
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ESG

Fashion space & start-ups

04 September 2022, Mumbai:

The way we shop is changing thanks to fashion entrepreneurs. A lot is occurring in the fashion business, from tech-savvy customers to the industry's walls being broken down by technology given that the Post-Covid fashion industry is started to find its feet. The new paradigm is pushing companies to align and adapt to new consumer preferences on the back of the growth headroom digital/tech intervention is providing necessitating them to raise more money and embrace technology earlier than ever.
Fashion entrepreneurs are increasingly expanding outside eCommerce. The business is getting hotter. The advent of ‘Fashion Startups’ is changing the way consumer buys n shop. The trade is coming to a realization, of how Startups' arrival will be etched in history unraveling how fashion is produced distributed, and consumed by consumers of the day. Experts anticipate that the fashion industry will continue to grow and that fashion startups will play significant roles in this modernization process as the industry moves toward modernization and more startups emerge in the sector.

The approach to fashion trade is shifting thanks to fashion entrepreneurs. Many fashion startups are emerging, helping to transform the sector. Previously, these sorts of businesses were constrained by their enormous risks. Fashion startups are the newest businesses that market apparel/clothing, accessories, cosmetics, and other items that may be used to seem fashionable or nice. These firms continually bring about improvements challenging the established fashion industry business model to become a center of the newest and finest fashion. The semblance is that 'Fashion Startups' are been seen to drive innovations in the space such as VR fashion, AR apparel, AI & IOTs of the world.

Simplistically how do we describe what luxury means to you can be," very rich, pleasant, and comfortable surroundings". Most cutting-edge fashion businesses today have transformed from being an exclusive luxury of high society to a means of expressing personal style for people from various backgrounds. The technology here solves the issue of finding apparel/garments that suit one's body form, skin tone, and personal taste. As a result, fashion entrepreneurs now focus on producing unique items for each consumer. With new technology making it simpler for everyone to acquire what they want at a price they can afford, fashion companies are predicted to rule the globe in 2022. So let's explore the most recent developments and the businesses influencing the fashion industry's direction.

The evolving fashion business today contributes to the success of individuals in a society that is becoming more and more image-conscious. Catwalk events clearly are a communication funnel/a convergence between fashion designers & end consumers allowing designers exhibiting ideas, and merchandise on live models to live up to the experience.
Of late, Indian fashion startups are been witnessed to have reinvigorated the Indian fashion market because of inherent advantages, for instance, start-up costs are modest, and as in many cases, you won't require employees or even an office.

Fashion startups hack for curating niches in order to start getting a better fit is to try on. The desires of men and women who have trouble fitting into conventional clothes stores are the same. The cliche goes is," Fashion defines our personality and distinctively we as a person/persona/an embodiment". If you've ever had trouble finding the right fit or have a passion for bringing fashion to everyone, starting a plus-size apparel/clothing store may be a significant business venture.

It is anyone's guess that the entry barrier here is factors like attaining economies of scale (given little money/no capital in hand) in a space wherein its cottage industry/business may be conducted from a home in many cases on the one hand and product differentiation on the other. Undeniably the innate advantage of a home-based business is that fittings are more private and comfortable.
Pulse Check
The fashion industry today is grappling with multiple headwinds amid rising geo-political risk concerns fuelling supply-chain disruption, and slackened demand.
As per one McKinsey report,” From a geographic perspective, China was the standout performer over 2021, as its economy recovered much faster than those of other countries. In 2022, the industry’s growth will likely be driven by both China and the United States, while Europe lags behind”.
India has emerged as one of the world's fastest-growing fashion markets over the past few years. It is projected to grow at 15 percent CAGR by 2022 and become a $102 billion market for apparel, as per a recent report.

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Startup

Textile Sector: Unfolding global geopolitical & economic situations

07 September 2022, Mumbai:

Inflation-induced economic stress and energy crisis are affecting the global textile sector and will have far-reaching implications on development issues. Economic headwinds are been witnessed e.g. soaring energy and consumer product costs leading to an ever-present risk of mismatches between energy supply and demand. Coupled with a reduction in disposable incomes in the UK and EU & looming recessionary pressures will impact the global textile industry.
Strengthening Dollar
According to reports," The US dollar is on a tear, strengthening around 11% since the start of the year & this will increase the price of gasoline paid by importing nations and will put pressure on debt repayment by developing countries like Sri Lanka and Pakistan, which are major textile manufacturing countries. This led to the devaluing of currencies in other countries & is evident from the ongoing crisis conditions in the United Kingdom and Sri Lanka.
The shift in the geopolitical landscape
The World Economic Forum's Global Risks Report 2018 argued that geopolitics is becoming not just multipolar, but also “multi conceptual”. The ongoing Russia-Ukraine war and mounting tensions between China and Taiwan are all contributing to the slowing of the textile sector. There has been a change of guard in the UK with The Rt. Hon. Ms. Liz Truss, becoming the PM; had a direct impact on economic woes there, which resulted in the change in the party leadership. As stated on 07-09 by her the priority is to tackle the energy crisis so that cost of living raises can be controlled. If uncontrolled, analysts predict that inflation may spiral up to 13.3% by Spring in the UK. Such a dire economic situation may affect the sales of textiles and other commodity items.
Demand headwinds
“Yarn enquiry is not there,” stated Mr. V. Shanmugam, GM of Aruppukkottai, Jayalakshmi Textiles, India a cotton spinning mill having 2k ring spindles. Mills are forcing additional weekly holidays or reducing production in states like Gujarat, A.P. & even in T.N. “Our production has come down from 12 tons/day to 8 tons/day,” added Shanmugam.
While the issue surrounding high cotton and raw materials costs has occupied the textile industry for a few months now, it is important to focus on the demand aspects. The demand for textile products has slowed down due to global geopolitical and economic situations.
Even at Rupees 430/Kg for 60s Ne compact cotton yarns, there are not many takers. Mills incur a loss of Rupees 30-40/Kg at such prices,” agonized Velmurugan Shanmugam.
Cautious Optimism
Textile & manufacturing sectors must adopt a new management paradigm, “Caveat Emptor et Venditor.” It indicates that both buyers & sellers must pay attention to global scenarios to have the situation under control. The industry should be cautious in its planning in terms of modernization and non-essential capital expenditure. In my opinion, it is worthwhile to postpone such activities for a period of at least 18 months.
The burden rests in the hands of policymakers and central bankers of nations to have a good grip on their economies to avoid recession. Fall-2022 will be an interesting one to watch, setting the course for the global textile & manufacturing sector for the next few years to come.
(Credits: Dr. Seshadri Ramkumar, Ph.D., CText, FTI (UK), FTA (Honorary), TAPPI Fellow (USA) & TexSnips)

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Growth

Brand acquisition & house of brands

03 September 2022, Mumbai:

The brand acquisition seems to be the flavor of the day. Aditya Birla and Reliance Group, two of India’s prominent business groups have recently invested in designer brands like Manish Malhotra, House of Masaba, Tarun Tahiliani, Sabyasachi, and Anamika Khanna.

Both groups seem to be more inclined towards luxury brands, though they have also invested in a few premium ones, says an Inventiva report.

BRANDED HOUSE VS HOUSE OF BRANDS

As per Mahesh Singh, Founder and Managing Director, Singhi Advisors these acquisitions will give Reliance Brands and Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail (ABFRL), a chance to expand their product lines while offering the designer brands an opportunity to open more stores, introduce new products, etc.

Steady growth in the fashion industry

The Indian fashion industry has been growing at a steady rate despite a curb on weddings due to the pandemic. As per the market research company Euromonitor International, the Indian fashion market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 15 percent between 2021 and 2026.

Both Reliance Brands and ABFRL have been trying to get a piece of this growth pie. For the last few years, they have strengthened its position through new acquisitions and partnerships.

For instance, ABFRL invested in the House of Masaba to boost its beauty and personal products range. The acquisition helps the company acquire a well-known brand and a well-established consumer base.

Through these acquisitions, both these groups plan to widen their price range to include consumers from all social and economic strata. For instance, ABFRL offers a mix of brands like Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Jaypore, and Sabyasachi Couture for women.

One ET study refers," In Q1 2021, $1.3 billion of VC funding was raised by D2C brands in the US, with India at $500 million. The hyper-accelerated D2C Brands explosion made way for many disruptions, with The hyper-accelerated D2C Brands explosion made way for many disruptions, with ‘‘.

Widen products and market reach

Such collaborations benefit designer brands by allowing them to sell and distribute products across the world through big companies. They help brands consolidate their market position and unlock some value. Meanwhile, conglomerates like ABFRL and Reliance Retail are able to offer more choices in clothes, points out Aditya Chaudhury, Partner, and Argus Partners.

Investing corporate money into the designer clothing industry also offers more expansion opportunities to designers. For instance, known for its bridal lehengas, Sabyasachi Couture launched its jewelry line in 2017.

The designer brand also launched a fast fashion range in August 2021 in collaboration with H&M. Designers can also explore new markets by introducing affordable clothing or jewelry range. This ensures their clothes are bought by more number people.

Build omnichannel networks

Brand acquisition by corporate houses also helps them build omnichannel networks and adopt a direct-to-consumer approach. For instance, the strategic purchases of Genesis Luxury and Brooke Brothers help Reliance form partnerships with Burberry, Coach, Jimmy Choo, Diesel, Kate Spade, Michael Kors, Steve Madden, etc.

The paper intends to explore the basics of Brand Architecture getting readers valuable trade insights with a handful of examples. However, corporate acquisitions aren’t limited to luxury brands alone as affordable brands like Clovia, were bought by Reliance for ten times its sales this year and Amante for the same amount in 2021. Similarly, ABFRL bought Phillipe, Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Peter England, Forever 21, etc.

Both groups prefer to buy brands rather than make them. To sustain its growth momentum, they need to widen its price range to serve a wide range of consumers. They also need to retain the core value of couture brands while growing them.

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