Luxury is changing addresses in India. A recent CBRE South Asia report revealed a surprising shift – high streets, traditionally open boulevards with established retail stores, have become the preferred destination for luxury brands in 2023. This challenges the long-held dominance of shopping malls as the go-to location for premium experiences in top eight cities across India. The study shows a significant shift, with high streets capturing a 45 per cent of the luxury retail leasing market, compared to 40 per cent for malls and 15 per cent for standalone stores.
High street’s appeal
The report highlights a significant shift with high streets taking 45 per cent of the total luxury retail leasing in 2023. So, what's driving this change? Experts suggest several factors contribute to this high street preference.
Exclusivity and brand identity: High streets offer a more curated environment, allowing luxury brands to control their surroundings and create a distinct brand experience. Unlike sprawling malls with a variety of brands, luxury labels on high streets benefit from a sense of exclusivity. As Anshul Jain, Managing Director, India, Cushman & Wakefield, says: "High streets provide a platform for brands to showcase their architecture and design philosophy, creating a strong brand statement
Footfall and visibility: Prime high-street locations offer high visibility and foot traffic. This is particularly attractive for luxury brands targeting affluent consumers who frequent these areas. As Sachin Mutreja, MD, Cushman & Wakefield India points out, prime high streets boasts of high foot traffic, often comprising affluent residents and aspirational shoppers. This ensures greater brand visibility compared to potentially getting lost in a crowded mall.
Flexibility: Most high streets offer more flexibility in terms of store design and layout compared to standardized mall spaces that is an added attraction for luxury brands.
A glimpse of global fashion capitals
Luxury retail in global fashion capitals like Milan, Paris, and New York presents a diverse picture. While high streets do play a role, a more balanced approach is evident.
Top luxury brands often set up large, opulent flagship stores on prominent high streets. These stores serve as brand destinations, offering a unique and immersive shopping experience. High-end shopping arcades, known as gallerias, are another hallmark of luxury retail in these cities. These gallerias house a curated selection of luxury brands under one roof, creating an exclusive and prestigious shopping environment. Established department stores with dedicated luxury sections remain relevant, offering a wider variety of brands and catering to a broader luxury clientele.
In Paris for example, Avenue Montaigne a famed Parisian high street, synonymous with luxury, housing iconic brands like Dior and Chanel. In Milan for example, Via Montenapoleone is the high-street fashion hub that boasts flagship stores of Prada, Gucci, and Versace. In New York City Fifth Avenue remains a prime location for luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Tiffany & Co., although luxury department stores like Bergdorf Goodman also play a significant role.
India's unique approach
While high streets are gaining traction in India, there are some key differences compared to global markets.
Malls are still relevant they are a popular shopping destination for many consumers, including luxury shoppers. In fact, as per CBRE report as of 2023, malls luxury occupies 40 per cent of retail landscape. This can be attributed to the growing mall culture and the convenience it offers to shoppers. However, the trend is towards high-end malls with a curated selection of luxury brands.
In India standalone stores are less prevalent compared to established markets. This may be due to the high cost of prime real estate and the preference for curated shopping experiences. These stores cater to a niche segment.
Experts predict a continued rise of high streets, with a potential increase in luxury gallerias offering a more curated experience. Malls are likely to adapt by attracting a wider range of luxury brands and creating more exclusive shopping environments. The high street's dominance in India's luxury retail space highlights a growing desire for brand experience and exclusivity. As the market matures, one can expect a more balanced approach, incorporating elements from established global models.
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A burgeoning brand in India's casual wear market, Harbour 9 aims to revolutionise the industry by offering high-quality, comfortable apparel for all generations. A modest venture that began by catering primarily to men has blossomed into a comprehensive fashion destination for the entire family, thanks to overwhelming success and positive feedback.
Dedicated to making a positive impact, Harbour 9 is attuned to the modern consumer's desire for frequent wardrobe updates. By staying abreast of current trends and consumer preferences through meticulous research and feedback analysis, the brand continually evolves its offerings. Manoj Jain, Director, emphasises on the brand's commitment to ensure affordability without compromising on luxury or quality. The brand aims to deliver cost-efficient, durably crafted apparel that not only looks stylish but also lasts longer than conventional garments, he explains.
Recognising the detrimental effects of fast fashion on the environment, Harbour 9 recently introduced a sustainable clothing line by utilising recycled materials from discarded clothing and PET bottles. Committed to reduce carbon emissions and fostering sustainability in its operations, Harbour 9 strives to make sustainable fashion accessible to consumers. It actively engages with its audience, soliciting input, resolving queries, and fostering a sense of community.
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Looking ahead, Harbour 9 aims to expand its social media presence by leveraging engaging contests and collaborations to connect with customers and amplify its brand reach. With a steadfast commitment to quality, sustainability, and customer satisfaction, Harbour 9 is poised to redefine casual wear in India and beyond.
Climate change is disrupting more than just weather patterns, it's transforming the fashion industry. Gone are the days of distinct seasonal collections. A warming planet is prompting fashion brands to rethink clothing lines, with a focus on adaptability and versatility. For example, Spanish retailer Mango, and many others are embracing adaptable clothing to cater to unpredictable temperatures. Toni Ruiz, CEO, Mango points out, "The customer is going to look for what they need at that moment." This shift reflects the reality of a warming world with blurring seasonal lines. Hot days can creep into fall, and unexpected cold spells can interrupt spring.
This sentiment is echoed by industry experts. Warmer winters and erratic weather patterns are forcing a move away from strictly seasonal collections. Consumers are increasingly seeking clothes that cater to the present weather, not a predetermined season.
A multi-pronged approach
Mango is tackling the challenge with a multi-pronged approach. To begin with, the brand is emphasizing ‘in-between’ clothing items like lightweight trench coats, perfect for unpredictable weather. It’s also incorporating breathable, sweat-wicking fabrics into its menswear line for hotter days. And to ensure agility, the company sources trend-driven pieces from European manufacturers known for quicker turnaround times. Functional wardrobe essentials are sourced from Asia, leveraging established production capacity. This geographically diverse supply chain allows them to react swiftly to changing weather patterns and customer preferences.
AI in design, a trend for the future
Mango isn't stopping at adaptable clothing. The company is also leveraging Artificial Intelligence (AI) to understand consumer preferences and design trends. Their in-house AI platform, akin to ChatGPT, assists designers in creating new collections. While still in its nascent stages, AI-powered design holds promise for a future where fashion adapts not just to the weather, but also to the ever-evolving desires of consumers.
Indeed, Mango's approach exemplifies a wider trend in the fashion industry. Brands are recognizing the need for more adaptable clothing and are utilizing flexible sourcing and innovative technologies to cater to a world with no seasons. This shift promises a more responsive industry that caters to the ever-changing needs of a climate-conscious consumer. In fact, as weather patterns become more erratic, the fashion industry is transforming. Brands that prioritize adaptable clothing will be best positioned to navigate this changing landscape.
Renowned Italian luxury fashion house, Bulgari experienced unprecedented success in India in 2023 and the trend continues to soar in 2024, says Jean Christophe Babin, CEO.
Babin attributes this achievement to the robust demand for Bulgari's jewelry offerings, particularly its India-inspired creations like the Mangalsutra and the B.zero1 Kada bracelet.
The recent inauguration of the Jio World Plaza, a luxury mall in Mumbai,played a significant role in Bulgari's success, delivering impressive results. Babin emphasises the importance of tailoring products to resonate with Indian culture, noting the country's deep-rooted traditions. He highlights Bulgari's unique position as one of the few global jewelers offering Indian-centric designs, such as the Mangalsutra, which consistently sells out and has generated waiting lists, even among non-Indian clientele.
To capitalise on this momentum, Bulgari plans to expand its presence in India by opening more boutiques in key cities like Bengaluru, Hyderabad, and Mumbai. Babin acknowledged the challenge posed by the scarcity of quality retail space, particularly in luxury malls, and called for greater collaboration between luxury brands and landlords to unlock India's immense potential.
Additionally, Bulgari is exploring opportunities in e-commerce, considering partnerships with established platforms like Ethos to leverage their robust supply chain for online sales. Babin emphasised the importance of a hybrid approach, combining brick-and-mortar stores with digital touchpoints to reach a broader audience.
Despite the challenges posed by the pandemic, Babin expressed optimism about India's recovery and the strong affinity for Bulgari's brand among Indian consumers. He highlights the synergy between Bulgari's bold and colorful designs and India's rich cultural heritage, emphasising the country's appreciation for colored stones beyond just diamonds.
With the courtesy of the Fashion Design Council of India's (FDCI) international designer initiative, "Measure”, Lakme Fashion Week stage witnessed a groundbreaking showcase on Day 4." Hailing from the Republic of Dagestan, Russia, designer Zainab Saidulaeva, captivated the audience with her collection titled "TOi."
Dagestani heritage meets modern fashion on the runway
Saidulaeva's collection served as a bridge between centuries, drawing inspiration from the rich tapestry of Dagestani wedding customs and historical attire. This unique blend of tradition and modern design translated into exquisite pieces that incorporated layering, rich textures, and a captivating play on black and white tones using luxurious silks. The collection wasn't just about fashion; it was a celebration of Dagestani culture, with many models gracefully adorned in traditional headwear.
Measure: A rising star in Modest Fashion
Beyond "TOi," Saidulaeva's label, Measure, is making waves in the world of modest fashion. The brand, known for its focus on cultural harmony and a balance between heritage and contemporary style, has already garnered significant recognition. Measure boasts its own multi-brand concept store, "Others," in Moscow, and has graced the prestigious Moscow Fashion Week runways. Their designs have also been featured in prominent global fashion publications.
"A mesmerizing journey into the heart of culture"
Saidulaeva expressed her delight at showcasing "TOi" at Lakme Fashion Week, highlighting her inspiration from Dagestan's rich customs and garments. She emphasized the beauty of multi-layered silhouettes and the versatility of silk in her creations.
FDCI fosters global collaboration
Sunil Sethi, Chairman of FDCI, echoed the sentiment of a remarkable convergence. He lauded the participation of Measure in this international initiative, acknowledging their valuable contribution to pushing the boundaries of fashion. The Lakme Fashion Week presentation marked a significant moment, not just for Saidulaeva and Measure, but also for the growing prominence of modest fashion on a global scale.
Esteemed Argentinean apparel brand, La Martina joined hands with one of India's foremost designers, Rajesh Pratap Singh, to launch a capsule collection at the ongoing Lakme Fashion Week (LFW). Blending fashion and sport, the collection pays a tribute to the rich tradition and prestige of Polo in India.
Presenting their luxurious polo collection for Spring/Summer 2024, La Martina introduces a range of styles that have quickly become essential for both sports and fashion enthusiasts alike. From the adventurous La Martina Argentina line to the colonial-inspired aesthetics of the Guards Polo Club collection, each piece exudes the brand's commitment to expert craftsmanship and timeless elegance.
The collection accentuates heritage and innovation, featuring intricate details such as flat Knit Itarsia, fine mercerised flat knits, Chevron Itarsia variations, zardozi badges, hand block printing, and miniature art-inspired polo digital art. Drawing inspiration from the architecture of Jaipur, the embroidery reflects a meticulous blend of tradition and modernity. The fabrics, ranging from custom-woven jacquard to silk twill, along with satin prints and fine linens, are crafted with meticulous care, particularly evident in the riding breeches designed with distinct elegance.
A special highlight of the collection is the curation of handmade and hand block signatures, adding a striking fusion of the polo spirit and Rajasthan's heritage. The polo scarves, woven in the finest Pima and mercerised yarns, epitomise the perfect blend of heritage styling and modern luxury.
Expressing his excitement about the collaboration, Singh emphasises on the collection's tribute to the game of Polo in India, celebrating its enduring charm and deep-rooted cultural significance. .
Adrian Simonetti, Co-founder and President, La Martina, emphasises the sophistication of customers who are delving deeper into the category, seeking authenticity and originality.
Fashion designer Rajesh Pratap Singh made a striking debut at the Lakme Fashion Week x Fashion Design Council of India event with a new collaborative capsule collection alongside the polo-inspired apparel brand La Martina,
Singh emphasised that the new collection transcended mere fashion, serving as a celebration of heritage and sport intricately intertwined. The upcoming pieces showcased intricate details and vibrant cultural motifs, paying a heartfelt tribute to the dynamic spirit of Jaipur.
Held at an offsite location, the collection underscored the deep-rooted connection between Jaipur and Polo. Singh's signature Indian style seamlessly melded with La Martina's Argentinian heritage, evident in the meticulously crafted details such as flat knit intarsia, fine mercerized flat knits, chevron intarsia variations, zardosi badges, and hand block printing.
Adrian Simonetti, Co-founder, and President, La Martina, describes Polo as a realm synonymous with luxury, emphasising its association with passion for horses, an extravagant lifestyle, breathtaking landscapes, and an elite clientele. He noted a growing curiosity among discerning customers, who seek authenticity and originality in their luxury pursuits, thus deepening their appreciation for the sport and its accompanying lifestyle.
Spanning from March 13-17 at the Jio World Convention Centre in Mumbai, the event serves as a prestigious platform to bring together designers from across India. Featuring a blend of physical runway shows and digital showcases, it encompasses various design competitions and fashion seminars, showcasing the diverse and dynamic landscape of Indian fashion.
Luxury fashion designer Arpita Mehta has inaugurated her latest flagship boutique within the DLF Emporio mall in New Delhi.
Welcoming patrons on March 20, the store showcases the brand's coveted Spring/Summer 2024 collection alongside its timeless signature pieces.
Crafted through the collaboration between interior designer Ravi Vazirani and Arpita Mehta herself, the store's interior reflects the essence of the brand's 'cosy luxury' ethos. Vazirani, who previously lent his expertise to the brand's flagship in Mumbai, worked closely with Mehta to infuse the space with warmth and sophistication.
In their joint statement, Mehta and Vazirani said, they made subtle yet impactful modifications to the store's structure, seamless integrating old-world charm with contemporary design elements. Embellished with a curated selection of traditional and modern rugs, the flooring pays homage to fine craftsmanship, mirroring the intricacy found in Mehta's creations, they add.
Setting itself apart from its Mumbai counterpart, the New Delhi flagship boasts a vibrant interplay of colors and textures, creating an inviting ambiance that beckons visitors to explore. Mehta and Vazirani aim to extend the brand's signature fringe detailing from garments to decor, with delicate silk fringes adorning sofas and ottomans, thereby harmonising fashion with interior aesthetics.
Despite experiencing a period of slow growth in fiscal ending March 2023, High Street Essentials, the parent company behind brands such as ‘FabAlley’ and ‘Indya,' managed to keep its losses steady.
Annual financial statements filed with the Registrar of Companies show, the revenue of High Street Essentials from operations increased by 17.8 per cent to reach Rs 185 crore in FY23 from Rs 157 crore in FY22.
Apparel sales constituted 77 per cent of its total operating revenue, amounting to Rs 142 crore in FY23. The remaining income came from agency commission, which saw a significant increase of 38.7 per cent to Rs 43 crore in the same fiscal year.
The cost of material procurement for the fashion brand increased by 6.8 per cent to account for 27 per cent of overall expenditure, totaling Rs 63 crore in FY23. Cost of advertising and selling grew by 30.8 per cent to Rs 235 crore during FY23 from Rs 206 crore in FY22.
Despite maintaining a flat scale and cost, High Street Essentials reported consistent losses of Rs 45 crore in FY23. Its Return on Capital Employed (ROCE) stood at -247 per cent, with an EBITDA margin of -14.2 per cent. On a unit level, the company spent Rs 1.27 to earn a rupee in FY23.
Established in 2012 by Shivani Poddar and Tanvi Malik, High Street Essentials focuses on two women-centric brands: Indya, which specialises in ethnic clothing and accessories, and FabAlley, catering to Western apparel and loungewear.
The company boasts a presence of over 30 stores nationwide.
GQ India and the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) have joined hands to illuminate India’s dynamic menswear landscape with a special showcase at the Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) commencing on March 13.
The GQ x FDCI Men’s Edit is slated to grace the final day of the five-day fashion extravaganza. This unique event will spotlight new, meticulously curated collections from Jaywalking, Countrymade, and Rishta by Arjun Saluja.
The showcase will feature three labels—Jaywalking, Countrymade, and Rishta by Arjun Saluja—each possessing a distinct style and voice within the realm of Indian menswear. These brands will present their collections in a specially curated combined show.
Jaywalking, a homegrown label that catalysed the cultural movement of hype in India, is led by 30-year-old Jay Jajal. Established in 2019, this marks the Mumbai-based founder’s first showcase in five years.
Countrymade made waves in 2019 Sushant Abrol, Founder and Designer unveiled his debut collection at FDCI India Fashion Week. With thought-provoking narratives surrounding the military, Countrymade offers a contemporary approach to design while preserving the artisanal strength of Indian crafts.
Rishta by Arjun Saluja is renowned for its deconstructed silhouettes that explore new shapes and forms. Saluja, a master of unconventional narratives in fashion, is set to make a much-anticipated return to the runway after almost six years.
Che Kurrien, Head-Editorial Content, GQ India, says, the interest in men’s fashion is exploding, and this show reflects the dynamism, texture, and variation in the menswear universe across the country.
Sunil Sethi, Chairman, FDCI, adds, the show encapsulates the vibrant interplay of textures, colors, and styles which shape the ever-changing landscape of modern menswear.