India’s fashion scene is witnessing a resurgence of ethnic wear, particularly evident in the booming Indian wedding wear market. This segment is not just about extravagant celebrity looks but a carefully curated blend of heritage crafts and contemporary sensibilities.
Market size and growth
While specific figures for bespoke and ready-to-wear are unavailable, India's wedding wear market is estimated to be worth over Rs 70,000 crore ($8.4 billion) and is projected to grow further. India is the second-largest market globally, only behind the US. And as per Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) estimates, bridal wear constitutes 10-12 per cent of the total clothing market, highlighting its significance. Studies indicate, the international wedding market is projected to grow from $61.1 billion in 2023 to $83.5 billion by 2030.
In India, the segment is experiencing significant growth, with projections suggesting a CAGR in the range of 4-5 per cent. This growth is due to several factors like a rising middle class, increasing disposable income, and a growing appetite for designer wear.
Impact on traditional crafts
The demand for bespoke bridal wear has led to a renewed interest in traditional Indian crafts like embroidery techniques (zardozi, chikankari, etc.) and textile weaving (kanjeevaram, banarasi saris). High-end designers are creating exclusive, handcrafted wedding outfits, reviving traditional embroidery techniques like kalabatttu among others this empowers artisans and keeps these age-old practices alive.
Brides too are opting for multiple custom-made pieces reflecting their personal style and heritage. This trend is leading to the growth of bespoke couture by designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, Anita Dongre among others, with prices ranging from Rs 50,000 to astronomical undisclosed figures. In fact, designers are reinterpreting traditional silhouettes and embellishments to create contemporary looks. This caters to the evolving preferences of millennial brides who seek personalized designs that reflect their individuality. For example, designer Anita Dongre's focus on lightweight lehengas with pockets, is a welcome change from the traditionally heavy styles. As Yash Dongre, President, House of Anita Dongre, points out their focus has always been on functionality and comfort as brides are uncomfortable wearing heavy lehengas. Also, the focus on intricate craftsmanship and personalization elevates wedding wear into heirlooms, passed down through generations.
The tiered landscape, metros vs. non-metros
The market caters to a diverse clientele. While metros witness higher demand for luxury couture, Tier II and III cities have a thriving market for ready-made designer wear and traditional ensembles. Brands like Manyavar and Roopam offer affordable options, making designer aesthetics accessible to a wider audience. As Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, CMAI explains, earlier weddings would be the occasions to wear formal tie-suits. The introduction of affordable Indian ethnic designer wear has been a game-changer.
While established designers garner significant attention, the commercial market is a major player. It offers a wider range of wedding wear options at accessible price points, making designer aesthetics more attainable for a larger audience. Experts point out, commercial brands contribute to a higher overall turnover compared to high-end designers. Unlike bespoke pieces, commercially produced outfits can be worn for multiple festive occasions, offering better value for money.
A flourishing fashion trend
This isn't a fleeting fad. The rise in disposable income, cultural revivalism, and growing emphasis on individuality are driving forces behind the market's sustained growth. Marriages are no longer one-day affairs, with pre-wedding functions creating further demand for occasion wear.
In fact, the growing appreciation for Indian heritage and the revival of ethnic wear suggest a long-term trend, not just a fad. Then there is Bollywood’s influence where weddings continue to be a major trendsetter, influencing the choices of younger generations. Moreover, increasing disposable income of middle-class families fuels demand for elaborate wedding celebrations and designer wear. The moot point is, Indian wedding wear market is not just about exorbitant couture; it's a story of cultural revival, economic empowerment, and the constant evolution of a nation's sartorial identity and this is not just a passing fad.
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India's vibrant textile heritage and booming fashion industry have fuelled a growing demand for skilled professionals. Fashion education plays a crucial role in bridging this gap, but how does it fare on the global stage?
India’s fashion education sector is booming, with over 3,500 institutes offering programs across design, technology, and management as per All India Council for Technical Education (AICTE). India boasts of a robust network of fashion schools, with the prestigious National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) leading the pack. NIFT consistently ranks among the world's top fashion schools, according to Business of Fashion Global Fashion School Ranking 2023. However, a vast number of private institutions offer varying levels of quality.
Courses span diplomas, undergraduate and postgraduate degrees, catering to diverse interests and career aspirations.
Table: Course offerings
Program level |
Description |
Example institutions |
Undergraduate degrees (B.Des, BFTech) |
Comprehensive programs in fashion design, technology, and management. |
NIFT, Pearl Academy, Symbiosis Institute of Design (SID) |
Diploma courses |
Skill-oriented programs focusing on specific areas like pattern making or fashion illustration. |
Numerous private institutes across India |
Certificate courses |
Short-term programs for beginners or skill enhancement. |
Design institutes, online platforms |
Challenges and opportunities
The industry demands graduates with a blend of creative vision and business understanding and technical skills. Many institutions struggle to bridge this gap. Integrating business courses into the curriculum is crucial. For example, The Pearl Academy, known for its fashion programs, recently launched a "Centre for Creative Entrepreneurship" to equip students with business skills for the fashion industry.
Sustainable practices, digitalization, and technological advancements need to be woven into the curriculum to prepare graduates for the evolving industry. Opportunities lie in incorporating sustainable practices, embracing technology (3D printing, digital design), and fostering entrepreneurship. The need is to democratise this education. As designer Ritu Kumar says, “There's a huge opportunity for Indian fashion education to embrace sustainability and cater to the growing demand for eco-conscious clothing."
Making quality education accessible beyond Tier-I cities and through online or blended learning models can tap into a wider talent pool.
Strengths and need for improvement
India’s strength is its technical expertise as fashion schools in the country have a strong emphasis on technical skills like draping, pattern making, and construction, which are valued globally. Moreover, India's rich textile heritage is embedded in the curriculum, giving graduates an edge in understanding fabrics and materials.
However, certain areas need improvement. One of them is business acumen as integrating business management, marketing, and branding courses will equip graduates to navigate the commercial side of fashion. Also there is a need for global exposure among student. More international exchange programs and collaborations with renowned fashion schools will broaden student horizons.
The Indian fashion industry is projected to reach $300 billion by 2025 as per IBEF, creating a strong demand for skilled professionals. While there are a growing number of graduates, some may lack industry-specific skills, requiring additional training or upskilling program. The demand for skilled fashion professionals is high, especially with the growth of e-commerce and the domestic fashion market. However, concerns exist regarding the employability of graduates from less-established institutions.
Investing in robust fashion education that fosters creativity, business acumen, and global awareness will be instrumental in propelling India's fashion industry to the forefront of the global stage.
Fashion brand Azorte has collaborated with the Vegas Mall in Delhi to benefit from the captive audience of the mall that is strategically located near the Dwarka Metro station.
In turn, the collaboration will help Vegas Mall attract a fresh influx of visitors to it.
Ravindra Choudhary, Vice President, Vegas Mall, opines, the inclusion of Azorte will help the mall enrich visitors’ shopping experience by fusing contemporary Indian with international fashion. The mall remains dedicated to offering a premier shopping destination for patrons to immerse themselves in the latest fashion trends.
The collaboration also aligns with the mall's mission to provide unparalleled shopping experiences, remarks Choudhury. Azorte’s diverse range of trendy and classic pieces aims to further enhance its already diverse offerings at the mall, he adds.
With the courtesy of the Fashion Design Council of India's (FDCI) international designer initiative, "Measure”, Lakme Fashion Week stage witnessed a groundbreaking showcase on Day 4." Hailing from the Republic of Dagestan, Russia, designer Zainab Saidulaeva, captivated the audience with her collection titled "TOi."
Dagestani heritage meets modern fashion on the runway
Saidulaeva's collection served as a bridge between centuries, drawing inspiration from the rich tapestry of Dagestani wedding customs and historical attire. This unique blend of tradition and modern design translated into exquisite pieces that incorporated layering, rich textures, and a captivating play on black and white tones using luxurious silks. The collection wasn't just about fashion; it was a celebration of Dagestani culture, with many models gracefully adorned in traditional headwear.
Measure: A rising star in Modest Fashion
Beyond "TOi," Saidulaeva's label, Measure, is making waves in the world of modest fashion. The brand, known for its focus on cultural harmony and a balance between heritage and contemporary style, has already garnered significant recognition. Measure boasts its own multi-brand concept store, "Others," in Moscow, and has graced the prestigious Moscow Fashion Week runways. Their designs have also been featured in prominent global fashion publications.
"A mesmerizing journey into the heart of culture"
Saidulaeva expressed her delight at showcasing "TOi" at Lakme Fashion Week, highlighting her inspiration from Dagestan's rich customs and garments. She emphasized the beauty of multi-layered silhouettes and the versatility of silk in her creations.
FDCI fosters global collaboration
Sunil Sethi, Chairman of FDCI, echoed the sentiment of a remarkable convergence. He lauded the participation of Measure in this international initiative, acknowledging their valuable contribution to pushing the boundaries of fashion. The Lakme Fashion Week presentation marked a significant moment, not just for Saidulaeva and Measure, but also for the growing prominence of modest fashion on a global scale.
Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee says, India’s luxury sector saw a massive growth of 33 per cent across segments over the past one year, with jewelry sales growing at about 76 per cent.
The designer presented an exclusive collection of jewelry, clothing and other accessories at Saks Fifth Avenue’s new Beverly Hills flagship from March 7-16, 2024. He also launched a limited edition lipstick collection, to be exclusively available at Selfridges during the month.
Last yearMukherjee opened his largest flagship store in Mumbai and his first exclusive jewelry boutique at Taj Krishna in Hyderabad, India. He also collaborated with global eyewear brand Morgenthal Frederics and Bergdorf Goodman. Looking ahead, Mukherjee plans to introduce more entry-level categories, with an aim to establish a truly global Indian luxury brand.
Meanwhile, Gautam Sinha, Founder, Nappa Dori, plans to expand the brand’s operations to Europe and the Middle East. It plans to launch its second store in London besides enhancing operations in Dubai.
Uzma Irfan, Director-Corporate Communications, Prestige Group, notes, demand for luxury Indian brands is on a rise, leading to the UB City mall in Bengaluru being fully occupied. To expand their operations, indigenous luxury brands plan to expand into newer malls.
Pushpa Bector, Senior Executive Director, DLF Retail, highlights, the lndian luxury landscape is expanding beyond weddings with notable designer brands like Arpita Mehta, Jayanti Reddy, Dabiri, and Anushree Reddy establishing their presence in malls like Emporio in Delhi.
Luxury is changing addresses in India. A recent CBRE South Asia report revealed a surprising shift – high streets, traditionally open boulevards with established retail stores, have become the preferred destination for luxury brands in 2023. This challenges the long-held dominance of shopping malls as the go-to location for premium experiences in top eight cities across India. The study shows a significant shift, with high streets capturing a 45 per cent of the luxury retail leasing market, compared to 40 per cent for malls and 15 per cent for standalone stores.
High street’s appeal
The report highlights a significant shift with high streets taking 45 per cent of the total luxury retail leasing in 2023. So, what's driving this change? Experts suggest several factors contribute to this high street preference.
Exclusivity and brand identity: High streets offer a more curated environment, allowing luxury brands to control their surroundings and create a distinct brand experience. Unlike sprawling malls with a variety of brands, luxury labels on high streets benefit from a sense of exclusivity. As Anshul Jain, Managing Director, India, Cushman & Wakefield, says: "High streets provide a platform for brands to showcase their architecture and design philosophy, creating a strong brand statement
Footfall and visibility: Prime high-street locations offer high visibility and foot traffic. This is particularly attractive for luxury brands targeting affluent consumers who frequent these areas. As Sachin Mutreja, MD, Cushman & Wakefield India points out, prime high streets boasts of high foot traffic, often comprising affluent residents and aspirational shoppers. This ensures greater brand visibility compared to potentially getting lost in a crowded mall.
Flexibility: Most high streets offer more flexibility in terms of store design and layout compared to standardized mall spaces that is an added attraction for luxury brands.
A glimpse of global fashion capitals
Luxury retail in global fashion capitals like Milan, Paris, and New York presents a diverse picture. While high streets do play a role, a more balanced approach is evident.
Top luxury brands often set up large, opulent flagship stores on prominent high streets. These stores serve as brand destinations, offering a unique and immersive shopping experience. High-end shopping arcades, known as gallerias, are another hallmark of luxury retail in these cities. These gallerias house a curated selection of luxury brands under one roof, creating an exclusive and prestigious shopping environment. Established department stores with dedicated luxury sections remain relevant, offering a wider variety of brands and catering to a broader luxury clientele.
In Paris for example, Avenue Montaigne a famed Parisian high street, synonymous with luxury, housing iconic brands like Dior and Chanel. In Milan for example, Via Montenapoleone is the high-street fashion hub that boasts flagship stores of Prada, Gucci, and Versace. In New York City Fifth Avenue remains a prime location for luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Tiffany & Co., although luxury department stores like Bergdorf Goodman also play a significant role.
India's unique approach
While high streets are gaining traction in India, there are some key differences compared to global markets.
Malls are still relevant they are a popular shopping destination for many consumers, including luxury shoppers. In fact, as per CBRE report as of 2023, malls luxury occupies 40 per cent of retail landscape. This can be attributed to the growing mall culture and the convenience it offers to shoppers. However, the trend is towards high-end malls with a curated selection of luxury brands.
In India standalone stores are less prevalent compared to established markets. This may be due to the high cost of prime real estate and the preference for curated shopping experiences. These stores cater to a niche segment.
Experts predict a continued rise of high streets, with a potential increase in luxury gallerias offering a more curated experience. Malls are likely to adapt by attracting a wider range of luxury brands and creating more exclusive shopping environments. The high street's dominance in India's luxury retail space highlights a growing desire for brand experience and exclusivity. As the market matures, one can expect a more balanced approach, incorporating elements from established global models.
Luxury fashion designer Arpita Mehta has inaugurated her latest flagship boutique within the DLF Emporio mall in New Delhi.
Welcoming patrons on March 20, the store showcases the brand's coveted Spring/Summer 2024 collection alongside its timeless signature pieces.
Crafted through the collaboration between interior designer Ravi Vazirani and Arpita Mehta herself, the store's interior reflects the essence of the brand's 'cosy luxury' ethos. Vazirani, who previously lent his expertise to the brand's flagship in Mumbai, worked closely with Mehta to infuse the space with warmth and sophistication.
In their joint statement, Mehta and Vazirani said, they made subtle yet impactful modifications to the store's structure, seamless integrating old-world charm with contemporary design elements. Embellished with a curated selection of traditional and modern rugs, the flooring pays homage to fine craftsmanship, mirroring the intricacy found in Mehta's creations, they add.
Setting itself apart from its Mumbai counterpart, the New Delhi flagship boasts a vibrant interplay of colors and textures, creating an inviting ambiance that beckons visitors to explore. Mehta and Vazirani aim to extend the brand's signature fringe detailing from garments to decor, with delicate silk fringes adorning sofas and ottomans, thereby harmonising fashion with interior aesthetics.
Moving away from traditional discounting practices, the fashion retail sector in India plans to adopt hyper-personalisation similar to a bespoke model.
According to experts at the India Fashion Forum (IFF), in Bengaluru, the industry currently faces a lot of problems due to conventional discounting methods. These discounts are often caused by excess inventory resulting from large-scale production, said Suparna Mitra, CEO, Titan Watches & Wearables. She advocated a deeper understanding of the consumer behavior as a solution to this problem.
Shailesh Chaturvedi, Managing Director and CEO, Arvind Fashions, advised brands to be more authentic and innovative to satisfy the demands of increasingly discerning consumers. Chaturvedi also emphasised on the potential of disruptive technologies like generative AI and customer data algorithms in enhancing consumer insights.
Shivanee Dutt, Director, Brand Marketing & Merchandising , Snapdeal, highlighted the importance of personalised shopping experiences to consumers. She emphasised on the need for tailored communication strategies driven by consumer data insights to resonate deeply with today's audience.
The integration of generative AI and data analytics is revolutionising marketing strategies and reshaping the fashion retail landscape both in India and globally, noted the participants at IFF. Highlighting the rule of technology as the largest value creator, Saloni Nangia, President & Managing Director, Technopak Advisors, said, AI serves as both an enabler and disruptor while underscoring the continued importance of sustainability.
Murali Balan, Co-founder, Tenovia, emphasised on the transformative power of data analytics in guiding strategic decision-making. He pointed out that data-driven insights unlock opportunities for personalisation, enabling brands to offer bespoke experiences tailored to individual preferences.
A burgeoning brand in India's casual wear market, Harbour 9 aims to revolutionise the industry by offering high-quality, comfortable apparel for all generations. A modest venture that began by catering primarily to men has blossomed into a comprehensive fashion destination for the entire family, thanks to overwhelming success and positive feedback.
Dedicated to making a positive impact, Harbour 9 is attuned to the modern consumer's desire for frequent wardrobe updates. By staying abreast of current trends and consumer preferences through meticulous research and feedback analysis, the brand continually evolves its offerings. Manoj Jain, Director, emphasises on the brand's commitment to ensure affordability without compromising on luxury or quality. The brand aims to deliver cost-efficient, durably crafted apparel that not only looks stylish but also lasts longer than conventional garments, he explains.
Recognising the detrimental effects of fast fashion on the environment, Harbour 9 recently introduced a sustainable clothing line by utilising recycled materials from discarded clothing and PET bottles. Committed to reduce carbon emissions and fostering sustainability in its operations, Harbour 9 strives to make sustainable fashion accessible to consumers. It actively engages with its audience, soliciting input, resolving queries, and fostering a sense of community.
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Looking ahead, Harbour 9 aims to expand its social media presence by leveraging engaging contests and collaborations to connect with customers and amplify its brand reach. With a steadfast commitment to quality, sustainability, and customer satisfaction, Harbour 9 is poised to redefine casual wear in India and beyond.
Climate change is disrupting more than just weather patterns, it's transforming the fashion industry. Gone are the days of distinct seasonal collections. A warming planet is prompting fashion brands to rethink clothing lines, with a focus on adaptability and versatility. For example, Spanish retailer Mango, and many others are embracing adaptable clothing to cater to unpredictable temperatures. Toni Ruiz, CEO, Mango points out, "The customer is going to look for what they need at that moment." This shift reflects the reality of a warming world with blurring seasonal lines. Hot days can creep into fall, and unexpected cold spells can interrupt spring.
This sentiment is echoed by industry experts. Warmer winters and erratic weather patterns are forcing a move away from strictly seasonal collections. Consumers are increasingly seeking clothes that cater to the present weather, not a predetermined season.
A multi-pronged approach
Mango is tackling the challenge with a multi-pronged approach. To begin with, the brand is emphasizing ‘in-between’ clothing items like lightweight trench coats, perfect for unpredictable weather. It’s also incorporating breathable, sweat-wicking fabrics into its menswear line for hotter days. And to ensure agility, the company sources trend-driven pieces from European manufacturers known for quicker turnaround times. Functional wardrobe essentials are sourced from Asia, leveraging established production capacity. This geographically diverse supply chain allows them to react swiftly to changing weather patterns and customer preferences.
AI in design, a trend for the future
Mango isn't stopping at adaptable clothing. The company is also leveraging Artificial Intelligence (AI) to understand consumer preferences and design trends. Their in-house AI platform, akin to ChatGPT, assists designers in creating new collections. While still in its nascent stages, AI-powered design holds promise for a future where fashion adapts not just to the weather, but also to the ever-evolving desires of consumers.
Indeed, Mango's approach exemplifies a wider trend in the fashion industry. Brands are recognizing the need for more adaptable clothing and are utilizing flexible sourcing and innovative technologies to cater to a world with no seasons. This shift promises a more responsive industry that caters to the ever-changing needs of a climate-conscious consumer. In fact, as weather patterns become more erratic, the fashion industry is transforming. Brands that prioritize adaptable clothing will be best positioned to navigate this changing landscape.