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Regulating ESG & Textile Industry

11 September 2022, Mumbai:

The complex landscape of conflicting sustainability reporting frameworks and standards that direct businesses and investors in ESG disclosure may soon become more apparent. In November, Glasgow will play host to COP26, the 26th U.N. Climate Change Conference.

The International Sustainability Standards Board will be established by the time it starts by the IFRS Foundation, which is in charge of setting international accounting standards. The new ISSB will advise businesses on what sustainability disclosures to include in their financial statements to inform investors better.

Overview of the EU framework 

A whole alphabet soup of regulations is coming out of the EU this year, potentially significantly altering the landscape of sustainable investment in Europe. These regulations include SFDR, CSRD, and green taxonomy. The EU surpassed all in developing an international sustainability policy in 2018 with the release of its sustainable finance action plan.

Making investments in the environment, society, and government more transparent and improving transparency was vital to that plan. The Sustainable Finance Disclosure Regulation, or SFDR, resulted from that.

The US is starting to take its efforts to regulate steering investments toward more ESG-friendly initiatives, while Europe is setting the example by prioritizing a sustainable finance system at the top of its agenda.

Although there are a variety of ESG regulatory frameworks in the Asia Pacific (APAC), general trends point to better data and disclosures. "Although there aren't any explicit new laws in place right now, the asset management sector has to take action right away to prepare for the influx of data on climate risk that it will soon receive for all assets it manages and the rising need for climate-related disclosures.

Concerns around ESG

Asset managers should take into account a more comprehensive ESG approach by putting in place an operational framework with governance and supervision at its heart, including suitable monitoring and surveillance controls and procedures linked to ESG, and using data that is consistent, similar, and trustworthy to calculate the return to shareholders.

The TCFD framework will be the foundation for the SEC's upcoming climate-related disclosure requirements, which are expected to be extensive, industry-specific, and probably obligatory. To assure regulatory readiness and facilitate the transition to the forthcoming wave of regulation, asset managers should take proactive actions.

The new task for supply chain managers in the textile and footwear sectors is to ensure that their suppliers adhere to ESG criteria, particularly those that assess workers' rights and working conditions.

Concerns about exploitation and forced labor are rising, even though this problem is not new for the apparel/clothing and footwear industry—it has been over 25 years since campaigners successfully pressed Nike to address working conditions for women at its suppliers' factories.

Finer Details

Forcible labor and other aspects of ESG are becoming significant compliance concerns for many large firms due to increased pressure from NGOs, regulations in the UK, California, and planned legislation in New York, as well as these three states' laws.

Investors and activists are pressuring big firms to report and reduce the greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, air, water, and other effects caused in their supply chains due to growing worries about climate change and other environmental consequences.

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ESG

Textile Industry & the ESG

07 September 2022, Mumbai:

All corporate stakeholders highly emphasize their commitments to the environment, society, and governance (ESG). These stakeholders, who range from investors to consumers, have made it plain that they want companies to be proactive in addressing ESG risks and opportunities as part of their entire business plan.

In reality, the demand from the stakeholders for business leaders to develop sustainability practices that benefit not just the bottom line but also have a more significant social impact has pushed this interest to a breaking point. Notwithstanding that the textile & apparel/garment sector is one of the biggest job creators and significant forex earners for most of the economies.
Long-term ESG vision
Studies that indicate stakeholders consider ESG accomplishments to be a crucial component of company performance support these demands. Businesses offering ESG more effectively are likely to perform better on traditional metrics. This is why ESG efforts are intensifying, and sustainability is integrating into all phases of the supply chain, from recycling garbage and using eco-friendly raw materials to training suppliers. This affects all industries, and the textile sector is no different.
How to get ESG right for the textile industry
Due to its longstanding reputation as a significant polluter, the textile sector is under pressure to become sustainable, enhance worker safety, and protect consumers' right to make informed decisions. The textile supply chain includes sourcing, production, processing, fabric maintenance, and packing, all of which generate hazardous effluents. All of this must be considered when creating and carrying out mitigation strategies.
Launching the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) program was a significant advancement. The regulation has elevated ESG requirements across industries and gives manufacturers a sizable financial and physical duty for collecting and disposing of post-consumer trash. This has shown us the importance of ESG innovation in addressing global sustainability issues.
Fast Fashion & ESG
The textile industry is changing. Fast fashion, which has come across & seen momentum, and uptake since the 1990s, is posed with greater scrutiny as lenders/investors and end-consumers in the ever-conscious globe weigh up the environmental cost of “disposable/use & throw” apparel/garments. The changing investor demands and consumer behaviour is driving a sustainable rise in the share of such apparel/clothes that ought to be manufactured in nothing short of sustainable ways.
Green compliance: Why anyone should invest
Companies are driven to push an agenda that puts sustainability, social good, and inclusiveness on the same level as profitability and growth by cultural and legislative forces. The necessity of utilizing corporate skills to address actual issues in the real world is essential to this strategy. The EPR is vital at the post-consumer stage as well. More & more manufacturers have gradually agreed to support a reverse collection system and recycling of post-consumer trash.
Greenwashing malaise
As per industry studies, Greenwashing is driving our descent into climate catastrophe. The environment gains by recovering the resources embedded in the garbage and reintroducing them into the system. Additionally, it guards against the terrible practice of "greenwashing," in which a business portrays itself as environmentally conscientious only for marketing purposes while failing to have an impact through its sustainability initiatives.
Carbon Footprint of Textiles
One of the research gate reports states," The textile industry accounts for about 10% of total carbon emissions and has been identified as the fifth largest contributor of carbon footprints". With a focus on lowering or balancing its carbon footprint, the textile sector has taken the lead in making a genuine difference. Responsible sourcing and farming are essential components of ESG activities. This includes producing eco-friendly packaging and regenerative organic farming.
Textile businesses could imitate the post-harvest manufacturing process, which uses recycled water, sustainable energy, and effective operations to create eco-friendly fabrics. Packaging should also include recycled plastic.

The initiatives go well beyond environmentally friendly material manufacture and recycling. Along with that, there have been additional transformations from conventional to renewable energy sources.
Each sector needs a long-term ESG vision.
In reality, how the textile sector uses resources, recycles goods, reduces waste, and influences the community will determine its very future. The industry's future structure and character will depend on how it reacts to this need.
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ESG

Textile Sector: Unfolding global geopolitical & economic situations

07 September 2022, Mumbai:

Inflation-induced economic stress and energy crisis are affecting the global textile sector and will have far-reaching implications on development issues. Economic headwinds are been witnessed e.g. soaring energy and consumer product costs leading to an ever-present risk of mismatches between energy supply and demand. Coupled with a reduction in disposable incomes in the UK and EU & looming recessionary pressures will impact the global textile industry.
Strengthening Dollar
According to reports," The US dollar is on a tear, strengthening around 11% since the start of the year & this will increase the price of gasoline paid by importing nations and will put pressure on debt repayment by developing countries like Sri Lanka and Pakistan, which are major textile manufacturing countries. This led to the devaluing of currencies in other countries & is evident from the ongoing crisis conditions in the United Kingdom and Sri Lanka.
The shift in the geopolitical landscape
The World Economic Forum's Global Risks Report 2018 argued that geopolitics is becoming not just multipolar, but also “multi conceptual”. The ongoing Russia-Ukraine war and mounting tensions between China and Taiwan are all contributing to the slowing of the textile sector. There has been a change of guard in the UK with The Rt. Hon. Ms. Liz Truss, becoming the PM; had a direct impact on economic woes there, which resulted in the change in the party leadership. As stated on 07-09 by her the priority is to tackle the energy crisis so that cost of living raises can be controlled. If uncontrolled, analysts predict that inflation may spiral up to 13.3% by Spring in the UK. Such a dire economic situation may affect the sales of textiles and other commodity items.
Demand headwinds
“Yarn enquiry is not there,” stated Mr. V. Shanmugam, GM of Aruppukkottai, Jayalakshmi Textiles, India a cotton spinning mill having 2k ring spindles. Mills are forcing additional weekly holidays or reducing production in states like Gujarat, A.P. & even in T.N. “Our production has come down from 12 tons/day to 8 tons/day,” added Shanmugam.
While the issue surrounding high cotton and raw materials costs has occupied the textile industry for a few months now, it is important to focus on the demand aspects. The demand for textile products has slowed down due to global geopolitical and economic situations.
Even at Rupees 430/Kg for 60s Ne compact cotton yarns, there are not many takers. Mills incur a loss of Rupees 30-40/Kg at such prices,” agonized Velmurugan Shanmugam.
Cautious Optimism
Textile & manufacturing sectors must adopt a new management paradigm, “Caveat Emptor et Venditor.” It indicates that both buyers & sellers must pay attention to global scenarios to have the situation under control. The industry should be cautious in its planning in terms of modernization and non-essential capital expenditure. In my opinion, it is worthwhile to postpone such activities for a period of at least 18 months.
The burden rests in the hands of policymakers and central bankers of nations to have a good grip on their economies to avoid recession. Fall-2022 will be an interesting one to watch, setting the course for the global textile & manufacturing sector for the next few years to come.
(Credits: Dr. Seshadri Ramkumar, Ph.D., CText, FTI (UK), FTA (Honorary), TAPPI Fellow (USA) & TexSnips)

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