15 January 2022, Mumbai:
"We only knit what we know," Alessandro Sartori remarked as he unveiled his new modular mode collection for Zegna. On Friday afternoon, the Zegna winter 2022 collection, which was a mix of intimate presentation and vast digital projection, started off the Milan menswear season.
From his clever over-layering to dexterous inside construction to astonishing cashmere inner linings, Sartori's latest path-breaking outfits for the house were all about introducing technical breakthroughs and multi-purpose garments into a modern man's typical wardrobe.
The collection was also the first full offering since the house was renamed with one Zegna collection rather than three Ermenegildo Zegna collections.
Sartori, one of fashion's top tailors, created tiny, very cool wool coats with a cashmere knit inside. A forgiving new over-shirt in water-resistant suede included a cashmere Donegal yarn knit lining.
"We utilise the cleanest cashmere," Sartori said, "where we know each individual farmer and they exclusively sell to Zegna." Even the footwear was given a makeover, with boots made of technical leathers and lined with technical jerseys.
"It's a technological perspective on menswear couture," Sartori said of the semi-phygital exhibition, which he allowed a select group of barely 50 people to see at the Zegna HQ on Via Savonna. A show film that culminated with a massive cast around the Duomo, dressed in the new Zegna brand colours of black and dusty rust.
"At 6 a.m. on a bitterly chilly morning, we were just a few hundred." "However, we make them appear to be 6,000 extras," Sartori said. They saw a pre-recorded projection on the digital platform and in the HQ while seated in socially distant seats and all wearing PPF8 markings. A fashion video including a mass performance by current choreographer Sadeck Waff, shots of models marching over Alpine Alps, and a mystical in-door studio.
"We wanted to present the collection in several levels." Due to the epidemic, 90 percent of the time is digital and 10% is live," Zegna's designer said. Zegna began trading on the New York Stock Exchange in December in a two-billion-dollar-plus floatation.
The colour palette was likewise modest, like the stock quote, which used cutting-edge financial techniques: soft white, vicuna, mahogany, and even grass. As was the silhouette, which included an anorak-shaped tunic in water-repellent shearling with a knit lining and a high polo collar below. Alternatively, boxy over-shirt jackets worn over tight, brushed heavy cotton shirts.
Alternatively, big cabans in micro wool and mohair with a waxy leather finish that is completely water repellent are available. The best of his twisted diagonal-zip tunics, which will become cult pieces for sartorially prominent men.
All of this is worn with billowing tube pants and tight-ankle pants. Patch pockets fused rather than sewn onto coats are just one example of the collection's inventive features.
Ale even presented Aran-style pullovers made of worsted yarns and eight-ply cashmere, all woven by hand, just like an unpredictable Aran, where each piece is unique. Following the exhibition, the designer spoke to the crowd in Italian and English, lavishing praise on Zegna craftsmen. He said, "We had 80 artists, 160 hands exclusively committed to this line for months."
While Zegna provided tastefully architectural jackets in extremely innovative Japanese pure wool denim, cut with a very lowered half-Raglan shoulder to produce a delicate slope, for the evening. Sartori's most recent collection - a Zegna Outdoors capsule that debuted in December – carries on the idea.
"It's a modular system with fewer colours but comparable hues," says the designer. Shade differences, not colour variances. "I want to reimagine today's outfit," Sartori said. Sartori was successful in this endeavour.
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