19 January 2022, Mumbai:
A NEW CONSORTIUM PROJECT TO ACCELERATE THE SHIFT FROM WET TO MOSTLY DRY PROCESSING IN THE TEXTILE SUPPLY CHAIN.
Today, Fashion for Good launches the D(R)YE Factory of the Future, a new consortium project that brings together several innovations in textile pre-treatment and colouration, that are set to accelerate the shift from wet to mostly dry processing.
Textile processing is responsible for the highest greenhouse gas emissions, significant water and chemical use in the fashion value chain. The selected innovations have the potential to reduce emissions by up to 89%, and to cut water consumption by between 83% and 95%.
Orchestrated by Fashion for Good, the D(R)YE Factory of the Future partners with adidas, Kering, PVH Corp., Arvind Limited, and Welspun India who bring extensive expertise in the textiles space, and innovators to bring together several novel technologies with the aim of disrupting the current processing, pre-treatment, colouration (dyeing and printing) and finishing, of textiles in the fashion supply chain.
Although a number of innovations exist in this space, they are often explored in isolation. To achieve greater impact and accelerate the shift to more sustainable practices, this project, initially focuses on innovations in pre-treatment and colouration, partners several innovations together to test their solutions in combination to validate their impact and potential to scale in the fashion value chain.
Working closely with participating Fashion for Good partners and key supply chain players, eight innovators, Alchemie Technologies, Deven Supercriticals, eCO2Dye, GRINP, Indigo Mill Designs, imogo, MTIX and Stony Creek Colors, will collaborate to demonstrate innovative solutions in pre-treatment and colouration, across five different materials; cotton, polyester, blends, denim and wool.
Technologies tested include plasma and laser treatments, spray dyeing, supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2) and foam dyeing. The results from the evaluations, as well as next steps for implementation, will be shared in a report in late 2022.
THE OPPORTUNITY FOR DISRUPTION
Traditional pre-treatment, colouration and finishing, which occur in Tier 2 of the supply chain (see figure below) often takes place in large tanks or baths which require vast amounts of energy, heat and water.
It produces the highest amount of Greenhouse Gas (GHG) emissions, 52%, in addition to releasing large amounts of toxins into water. One of the key levers to reduce impact is to move from wet processes - to mostly dry processes - innovative processing technologies that require very little to no water and reduced energy.
This shift has the potential to reduce Tier 2 emissions by between 79-89% and could slash over a quarter of total GHG emissions in the industry. An equal opportunity exists to reduce water consumption, including savings of up to 83% in pre-treatment and 95% in colouration.
The opportunity to accelerate this impact reduction, in this particular tier, lies in the disruptive solutions provided by participating innovators, and others emerging in this space. In comparison to conventional solutions, these technologies use little water, are effluent-free, reduce the amount of consumables and as a result use less energy.
Fashion for Good has compiled an accompanying overview of these technologies and their impact potential in the “Textile Processing Guide: pre-treatment, colouration and finishing”.
NEXT STEPS
At the project close Fashion for Good will share a report with key learnings and next steps for implementation. Simultaneously, Fashion for Good will work with the participating Fashion for Good partners to help facilitate the implementation of these solutions at selected manufacturers.
The D(R)YE Factory of the Future project, also leverages the learnings and actions outlined in the recent report “Unlocking the Trillion Dollar Fashion Decarbonisation Opportunity” by Fashion for Good and Apparel Impact Institute. The report charts a trajectory for the industry to meet its net-zero ambition breaking down the funding needed and maps integral levers across existing and innovative solutions. This report identifies that the shift from wet to mostly dry processing is crucial, with the potential to abate 24% of the industry’s carbon emissions and points out a set of interventions to unlock financing and accelerate the implementation.
SUPPORTING QUOTES
“Textile processing is the largest contributor to carbon emissions in the supply chain and a shift to mostly dry processing is crucial for the path to net-zero. Given the interdependencies in the processing stages, a stand-alone assessment of solutions is not sufficient.
By validating a combination of technologies, we can unlock the full potential of those solutions. This is why this project is so pivotal.” - Katrin Ley, Managing Director at Fashion for Good
“Innovation is key to meeting the targets we’ve set to reduce our footprint as well as addressing the challenges faced by our industry as a whole.
In addition to its research of new sustainable raw materials, Kering is investigating how to reduce its impact when it comes to dyeing processes at the manufacturing level. Thanks to Fashion for Good and the partnership of various actors within the industry, the Dr(y)e Factory of the Future is a project offering a new solution to shift from wet processing to a mostly dry one.
We are very excited about the project and new technologies and are looking forward to the next steps.” Christian Tubito, Head of Materials Innovation Lab at Kering
“Adoption of innovative technologies in textile processing can significantly reduce water and energy intensity. Brands – manufacturers – innovators working together through this consortium project will help to make these technologies mainstream sooner.
At Welspun, we are striving to be a global leader in the use of ESG frameworks by enabling a sustainable and circular approach in all our operations.
Our major water demand is met through treated municipal wastewater, with very little dependency on fresh water. Success in this project will help us further in leading water stewardship within industries and achieving carbon neutrality.
The working group of this project has created a perfect matrix to test all key raw materials and dyeing chemistries. Looking forward to seeing the disruption in textile processing through this project.” - Umasankar Mahapatra, Senior Vice President and Group Head - Innovation and Sustainability, Welspun India Limited
“The approach of evaluating the combination of our Digital Dyeing spray technology together with innovative pre-treatment solutions aligns the D(R)YE Factory of the Future project perfectly with our ambition to be part of the transformation of textile dyeing into a sustainable industry process.
We are very enthusiastic about the project and hope that the results will motivate the wider implementation of the combinations. This is a unique project that would not have been possible without the coordination efforts of Fashion for Good.” - Per Stenflo, Founding Partner at imogo
“The Fashion for Good D(r)ye Factory of the Future project, and the support of the brands involved, is vitally important as the need to address climate change becomes more urgent.
We are delighted that Alchemie’s low energy, digital dyeing technology will be a key part of this drive to transform the textile industry to shift from highly polluting methods to the adoption of technology that will dramatically reduce wastewater, energy and carbon emissions.” - Dr. Simon Kew, Managing Director, Alchemie Technology
“eCO2Dye is a technology company with a ‘green' direction and lifestyle. We see this as an opportunity to develop supercritical CO2 based waterless dyeing and other processes within the textiles manufacturing arenas with recognised brands.
Our technology is versatile, with applications in pre-treatment, colouration and post-treatment of man-made and natural textile materials. We want to proliferate our process equipment in many textile operations.” - Madhu Anand, Vice President, R&D at eCO2Dye
"Stony Creek Colors' plant-based indigo has already been validated in industrial denim dyeing. Now, through the DR(Y)E Factory collaboration, the company's new IndiGold pre-reduced liquid indigo dye will be applied with low water dyeing technology.
Once validated through this pilot, our plant-based dye innovation will leap frog conventional dyeing methods currently using synthetic indigo, imparting benefits to customers, fashion brands and mills.
This has the potential to solve excessive chemical and water use in fashion supply chains while replacing petroleum based colour with renewable, climate positive chemistries." - Sarah Bellos, CEO & Founder, Stony Creek Colors
“We at Deven Supercriticals together with D(R)YE Factory partners and Fashion for Good, can accomplish environment friendly, green objectives of textile industry with our patented Supercritical (SC) CO2 Dyeing and Finishing process that is uniquely suitable for man-made, natural as well as blended textiles.
We have made the SC CO2 technology truly viable, versatile and simple. The D(R)YE Factory project is helping us to work with global leaders and to realise a deserving position for our innovative technology in the world.” - Dr. Swapneshu Baser, Managing Directorat Deven Supercriticals Pvt. Ltd.
“MTIX brings Quantum-Mechanical Technology to the innovative D(R)YE Factory of the Future Project. Our MLSE is a totally dry pre-treatment process saving power while reducing dyeing time, temperature, and dyestuff consumption.
It is a pre-treatment that can improve the efficacy and durability of practically every downstream dyeing, printing, and functionality process, old or new.
Fashion for Good has provided an incredible launch pad to demonstrate and confirm innovative, planet-saving technologies to sustainability-minded partners.” - Manny Turchan, V.P. Industrial Engineering at MTIX
“We believe the Fashion for Good D(r)ye Factory of the Future project is a great opportunity to provide evidence of the benefits of innovative technologies and processes in the textile industry.
We are glad our industrial plasma dry bleaching process has been selected as one of the most promising innovations to lower the environmental impact of textile production.” - Martina Strazzacapa, Business Development at GRINP
“While denim is fashionable and highly desired, it is rooted in thirsty processes that consume large amounts of chemicals and generate lots of wastewater that is often untreated.
By using tiny bubbles that deliver indigo into the yarn, the IndigoZERO technology dramatically reduces the negative impact of indigo dyeing while enhancing quality.
Innovators face significant hurdles to overcome the status quo and bring sustainable products to the marketplace.
The D(R)YE Factory of the Future project helps overcome this status quo by bringing industry leaders together to create a strong market pull. We are excited to be part of this project and help contribute to a cleaner, brighter future!
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